Wine Maven in Training

Happy New Year!

2012-01-01T13:57:00.000-08:00

Ridge Blogger Tasting - Me vs. the Typewriter

2011-12-18T11:55:00.000-08:00

Last weekend I attended the last Ridge Bloggers Tasting of 2011. We were given this picture hint as to the theme of the tasting:

I thought to myself, if we are going to go from live Twitter-fall to tasting notes on typewriters, this is going to be interesting. I arrived at Ridge Monte Bello on a Sunday afternoon in December to see 4 typewriters from Tasting Room Manager and Host Christopher Watkins' personal collections, plus the usual group of Bloggers on ipads and iphones, and of course, the live Twitter-fall. Our entry fee for the tasting was that everyone had to compose a tasting note on the typewriter. I had never used one before so I was excited. Here I am in action:

(Notice the gadget next to me - it's not an iPad but a Kindle Fire. Not to go off on a tangent, but the most shocking omission from the Fire's design is the lack of a notepad feature. So since my typewriter skills are sub par I took the bulk of my notes in an email composed to myself on the Fire.)

The reason for this theme was a throwback to the early Monte Bello Ridge property owners and the culmination of the Ridge we now know today. Ridge has just released the first vintages of these original-property-specific wines from three family properties that Ridge now owns (Torre, Perrone, and Klein), including the current Monte Bello site where we sat.

After an aperitif of Ridge Estate Chardonnay 2008, my favorite California Chardonnay, we began tasting the components.

First we had the 2009 Ridge Klein Cabernet Sauvignon. It was classic Monte Bello Cab with eucalyptus and mint, plus woodsy, herbal notes. The fruit was muted and the wine was silky smooth on the palate.

Next was the 2009 Ridge Torre Ranch Merlot. This wine seemed to be having an identity crisis of whether it was Merlot or Cab. It was closed on the nose but fruity and leathery on the palate, and much more tannic than the Cab. The fruit indicated Merlot but structurally it leaned more in the Cab direction.

Finally we tasted the 2009 Perrone Cabernet Franc, which was my favorite of the three. It was very rich, with deep fruit, fresh raspberry, warm spice and some herbal notes.

All the wines had great acidity and you could imagine how well they would play together.

Next we did an estate blend vertical from the years 2003, 2004, and 2005. These are Ridge wines from the Santa Cruz Mountains blended from the above-mentioned grape varietals in varying quantities from year to year.

The 2003 had a gorgeous nose of cinnamon, clove, a bit of cornbread and some vegetal characteristics. On the palate there was nice fruit and spice, but the tannins could use some further aging to soften.

The 2004 smelled a little funky and like creamed corn. On the palate it was herbal with firm tannins. Chris explained that for some unknown reason the wines produced in even vintage years tend to be a bit funkier than the odd vintage years.

The 2005 had a more floral nose and was brighter and fruitier than the previous two, but the tannins were very grippy and need some time to smooth out in the cellar.

For a treat, fellow blogger Allan brought a mystery wine for us to try. He mentioned it came from his cellar of Ridge treasures (which is vast and includes many member's-only releases). I guessed it was a Syrah-based wine, due to the smoky, chocolate, dark fruit characteristics that I found in the wine. It was delicious, but I was wrong - it was a 1994 single vineyard Zinfandel from the Monte Rosso property in Sonoma Valley that Ridge produced that one and only year. There is only 1 case left in the Ridge Library, and Allan shared one of his two bottles with us. I am very thankful to have tasted this rare wine. Thanks again, Allan!

As always, a trip to Ridge Monte Bello is extremely rewarding and reinforces my love for wine and the industry. Ridge wines are always unique and interesting, and their potential for aging is remarkable. Thanks again to Christopher for hosting these fantastic events and inviting me.

For more posts and pictures from this event:
A Ridge Blog
http://blog.ridgewine.com/2011/12/20/for-those-about-to-type-we-salute-you/

Come for the Wine

http://comeforthewine.blogspot.com/2011/12/ridge-monte-bello-blogger-tasting.html

Stay Rad Wine Blog

http://stayradwineblog.com/2011/12/11/pinky-strength-the-ridgevineyards-blogger-tasting/

Give Me Grapes

http://www.givemegrapes.com/2011/12/vintage-bloggers-wine-tasting.html

My past posts on 2011 Ridge Blogger Tastings:

First Bloggers Tasting:

http://iheartnywines.blogspot.com/2011/03/ridge-bloggers-tasting.html

Second Bloggers Tasting:

http://iheartnywines.blogspot.com/2011/06/ridge-bloggers-tasting-2-monte-bello.html

Wine PR

2011-12-17T10:14:00.000-08:00

Last week at work some reps from PR Newswire hosted a wine reception to tell us more about their services. What a great idea, PR Newswire! Right up my alley. I learned more than I ever thought I knew about PR Newswire and tasted some nice wines as well. They brought a rep from The Wine Club, a great wine shop in SOMA near the San Francisco Wine Center, to tell us about the wines. He put together a little California vs. Spain tasting that was very interesting.

Whites:

Georis 2009 Sauvignon Blanc, Monterey/CA - This was an oaked SB and tasted more like a light California Chardonnay. Still lots of acidity and zest but very smooth from the oak. Blindfolded or not I could swear it was Chardonnay each time I sipped it. Shows how much winemaking can affect varietal character.

Pazo Senorans 2010 Albarino, Rias Baixas/Spain - Classic Albarino with bright herbal fruit and crisp acidity. Very pleasant.

Reds:

Tablas Creek Vineyard 2010 Patelin de Tablas, Syrah/Grenache/Mourvedre/Counoise blend, Paso Robles/CA - From our host's description I wanted to like this wine more than I actually did. I thought it was thin and harsh and tasted like cough medicine.

Celler Pinol 2008 Sa Natura, Carinena/Merlot/Cab Sauv/Syrah/Tempranillo blend, Priorat/Spain - This wine was rich, deep and big with lush dark fruit and firm tannin. I could see this aging well for several more years. For a big wine I often look to Priorat, but I do caution that the alcohol tends to be high in these wines.

Obviously and unsurprisingly, Spain won it for me. Thank you to Blueshirt, PR Newswire, and The Wine Club!

The Gift that Keeps on Giving

2011-12-09T15:25:00.000-08:00

I keep going back to this wine. At the Wine & Spirits Top 100 Tasting, I did a trade with the reps at Loimer next to the Wiemer booth and got this bottle of Gruner Veltliner. I opened it before Thanksgiving to have with a roast chicken dinner, and it was a very nice wine, the best GruVe I've had. GruVe is usually an herbaceous, citrusy, crisp wine, but the nose and flavors can be muted sometimes. The Loimer is concentrated and has a nice tropical nose with citrus and herbs to boot. Since this wine is in a screwcap bottle, it can keep for a while. I've had a glass here and there for the last 2 weeks and it's good every time, very versatile with a lot of different dishes. I finished off the bottle the other night with some dungeness crabs that I had gotten at the grocery store for dinner (now in season, $6.99/lb!) and it was a perfect pairing!

Giving thanks to Leonetti

2011-12-04T21:20:00.000-08:00

This Thanksgiving I got to try 2 bottles of 1996 Leonetti Cellars Walla Walla Cabernet Sauvignon. The corks were difficult to extract, so both bottles were decanted. The first was actually decanted with a significant amount of cork pieces, so we then filtered it through coffee filters (yes, it's the one in the coffee pot). The second bottle was a little easier to open so we decanted it without any floaters. I was so curious to try both wines and see if there was a difference, and there was! The non-filtered version was much brighter and fruitier. The filtered one lacked that vibrancy. I tried the filtered one first, and don't get me wrong, it was delicious. But then when I tried the non-filtered one it tasted even better. When I was working at Wiemer, Fred the winemaker taught me that everything you do to a wine robs it of some character - every racking, every filtering. This could have been one such example of the truth in his words. (But in a finished wine like this, there is always the chance of bottle variation, especially in wines that have aged.)

I like how Leonetti's labels say "Appellation American." Happy Thanksgiving!

At Ma Peche, the Mother of all Pairings

2011-11-13T20:35:00.000-08:00

On a recent business trip to NYC (I now visit NYC and stay in hotels, very different from being a resident there) I had dinner at Ma Peche, part of the Momofuku restaurant empire. Intending to just have 1 glass of wine, we ended up doing a light 3-course meal with a different wine for each course. My choices were semi random, not being at all familiar with the restaurant and cuisine, but they all ended up working out perfectly. It was really fun to try a new place and sample the wine list this way. Here are the pairings we did:

First Course
Summer rolls - pork/shrimp/tofu, lettuce, daikon, peanut
Scallop - coffee, brown butter, lime
Wine: Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon blend, Jean Medeville et fils, Bordeaux, France

Second Course
Beef tartare - soy, scallion, mint
Lamb corn dog - mustard, lamb's lettuce, pickle
Wine: Syrah, Chateau Maris 'Natural Selection,' Minervois La Liviniere, Languedoc, France

Third Course
Cheese plate of Moses Sleeper (Jasper Hill, VT), Prairie Breeze (Milton Creamery, IA), Caveman Blue (Rogue Creamery, OR)
Wines*: Touriga National Blend Ruby Port, Quinta de Honor, Portugal
Tinta Negra Mole, Henriques & Henriques, 'Rainwater,' Madeira, Portugal
*Between these two, the pairings differed depending on the cheese, but overall we enjoyed the Madeira more.

I think only wine geeks really care about food and wine pairing, but I find it pretty exciting to find that perfect combination without trying too hard. Case in point, I guess :)

Wine & Spirits' Grand Tasting

2011-11-10T22:25:00.000-08:00

Last month my friend Oskar visited from the Finger Lakes and invited me to join him at the Wine & Spirits Top 100 Tasting, honoring the San Francisco-based magazine's chosen top 100 wineries of the year. Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard was honored for the 3rd year in a row, and I got to accompany Oskar as a representative of the winery. Going to industry tastings is always more fun with 2 people - you can share the responsibility of pouring the wine while having the chance to walk around and taste the other wines.

The best part was the Champagne and oysters section on the veranda of City View at METREON in downtown/SoMa San Francisco - great views and delicious indulgences. I tried Dom Perignon for the first time (it was ok; I've had better for cheaper) and sampled some other great names like Louis Roederer.

In the Riesling family, in addition to Wiemer's 2010 Gewurztraminer and 2009 Late Harvest Riesling, wines that I proudly helped produce, I enjoyed Joh. Jos. Prum's 2009 Mosel Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese (Germany), a similar style to our Late Harvest Riesling, and Loimer's 2009 Kamptal Reserve Langenlois Steinmassl Riesling and 2010 Kamptal Gruner Veltliner (Austria). I love this simple green label:

Again I sampled R. Lopez de Heredia's 1993 Rioja Reserva Vina Tondonia Blanco, the white Rioja I first had at San Francisco Wine Center over the summer; this is such an interesting wine. I also had their 2001 Rioja Reserva Vina Tondonia Tinto, the red version. Delicious Spanish wines.

Other notable reds included Leonetti Cellar's 2008 Walla Walla Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and 2009 Walla Walla Valley Merlot. I've had older Leonetti vintages and they have been divine, so it was nice to try the current releases and see what the wine is like in its youth. I also enjoyed Achaval-Ferrer's 2008 La Consulta Uco Valley Finca Altamira Malbec. I visited this winery during my trip to Mendoza last year but I hadn't tried this single vineyard Malbec.

I had fun bumping into Mary Burnham and Jordan Mackay, wine writers and instructors at SFWC wine school.

And as always, it was great pouring Wiemer to adoring fans from around the country.

Other coverage:
http://www.vinography.com/archives/2011/10/whats_your_best_wine_tasting_t.html

Tomato Ridge

2011-11-07T21:49:00.000-08:00

Recently I had an unfortunate wine experience. I went to a tasting with a few California wine lovers who know wine and spend a lot of money on wine. Gordon Getty was there - former owner of the Getty gas stations before he sold them to Texaco in the 80s. He now has his hands in a few wine labels, restaurants, resorts and the like. I was late to the tasting so by the time I got there everyone was pretty tipsy, but I served my wine (blind of course) and it tasted like tomatoes. Tomato sauce, really. Wine tasting of tomato sauce may indicate a wine fault known as reduction, which means there is the presence of volatile sulfur compounds. Specifically, dimethyl sulfide may be the culprit behind tomato aromas. These volatile sulfur compounds can manifest in the fermentation process, from the yeasts being stressed or from lack of nitrogen or oxygen. At low thresholds these compounds can be desirable, resulting in aromas of fruit, flowers or minerality, contributing to the varietal character of certain wines, like Sauvignon Blanc, but of course, sometimes they can be off-putting.

This tomato wine was Ridge Paso Robles 2002, a zinfandel-based blend. Lucky for me, I had planned a trip to Ridge Lytton Springs in the Russian River Valley the next day, so I brought the bottle and they gave me a replacement from the current vintage, 2009, no questions asked. I'm going to age it a bit before drinking it, maybe for 7 years so I can do a more accurate comparison.

The Stars of Champagne @ SFWC

2011-08-31T09:36:00.000-07:00

The stars aligned last night @ San Francisco Wine Center as we gathered with Mary Burnham, freelance food and wine writer and author of Food & Wine Magazine’s 2012 Guide to Wine. Mary taught us about the prized region of Champagne, France, and why the soil, grapes, and climate are so important in making Champagne. We learned about how Champagne is made, why the second fermentation is so important, and what effect the dead yeast cells, or lees, have on the taste of Champagne. During the tasting, we enjoyed a broad range of large house Champagnes and special grower Champagnes. Most of the large houses in Champagne buy grapes from different sources in the area and then blend for a consistent style every year. Grower Champagnes are made from producers who grow their own grapes and might sell some to the large houses and use some for their own production. These wines were really special, and everyone enjoyed the lineup. It was amazing to taste the different styles, compare vintage and non-vintage, and experience different vintages. Hats off to Brian for creating an exceptional tasting!

The wines:

1. Pierre Peters Brut Cuvee Reserve Grand Cru

2. Laurent Perrier Brut 1996

3. Hubert Paulet Brut Premier Cru 1999

4. Chartogne-Taillet Brut VV 2002

5. Gaston Chiquet Brut Cart d’Or 2002

6. Vilmart Cuvee Grand Cellier d’Or 2005

7. Ayala Rose Majeur

8. Krug Brut Rose

The Krug Brut Rose was a very special bottle, and I am a sucker for pink bubbly so I loved it. My favorite though was the Chartogne-Taillet, which was toasty and creamy with great complexity and bright acidity.

Thanks to Mary for a fantastic education in all things bubbly!

Gewurz and Go-Wiemer

2011-08-29T20:08:00.000-07:00

A couple of weeks ago we went back up to the Finger Lakes to visit our friends at Wiemer Vineyard. As guests, we were given the royal treatment and put up on the 3rd floor of the winery barn, which doubles as Maressa's jewelry studio and a guest room. It was amazing to sleep in the winery, enveloped in that combination of smells that I love so much - wine, fermentation, wood. It was also really strange to wake up to Fred giving instructions to the German interns for the day's events. I felt like I was late for work and should be down there getting my assignment. Same time as last year, they are in the middle of bottling. It has been an amazing year so far at Wiemer, and many of the 2009 wines are already sold out. As happy I am for their success and for all those who are drinking those wines, this made me sad to hear since I was so involved in that vintage and it is almost gone now. But the 2010's hold a lot of promise too, and I got to try the Gewurztraminer, which was just released. The Gewurz was the hardest sort of the 2010 vintage because of the pesky grape berry moth that invaded the vineyards and pecked away at the grapes. We spent hours upon hours sorting these pink grapes, making sure none of the bad ones made it into the press.

The result: 2010 Gewurz is beautifully scented, concentrated and full on the palate, and downright delicious. Our hard work paid off!

We took a stroll through the vineyards and saw all the work that had been done over the spring. The tree lines were moved back to help control pests entering the vineyard, and unused land is being prepared for new plantings.

On the Magdalena Vineyard, the warmest Wiemer site, veraison has begun. This is when the color of the grapes starts to change from green to red or green to golden (for whites). It's an exciting time because it means the grapes are heading toward maturity and will soon be harvested. The bunches look really cool at this stage - this is Pinot Noir:

It is hard to believe harvest is coming and I won't be at Wiemer. But I know the able team is prepared for all the fruits of their labor. Thanks again to Team Wiemer for a great visit. Happy Harvest!

Passion Unleashed @ SFWC

2011-08-10T21:48:00.000-07:00

Passion was unleashed yesterday at SFWC, with Jordan Mackay, James Beard-award winning author, leading our Passion for Pinot tasting class. Jordan explained the beauty and challenges of Pinot Noir as a grape and a wine, from its thin skin and light tannin to its complex flavors of berries, cherries, earth and spice. We learned about the differences Pinot can show when made in different parts of the world and why Burgundy is so coveted. Because of the long winemaking tradition in France, Burgundy is the standard for Pinot Noir. The notion of terroir is very important in Burgundy, where small vineyard plots have cult status. In a region where the only red grape allowed is Pinot Noir, the wines are distinguished by the area in which they were grown, sometimes down to a row in a vineyard, based on the soil and growing conditions of each place. Burgundy is a cold region, so getting grapes ripe can be challenging and yields can sometimes suffer, making Burgundy expensive and sometimes difficult to procure. Stylistically, a Pinot Noir from South Africa can taste similar to a Pinot Noir from Burgundy, because of the characteristics of the grape, but the differences will be profound based on the soil and other environmental factors. It was a fascinating tour of Pinot Noir from around the world. Unfortunately one of the wines was corked, a Grand Cru Burgundy from 1999, but this ended up being a helpful exercise since many students had not smelled a corked wine before. We replaced the bottle with another, which ended up being the favorite of the tasting. It was a Premier Cru Burgundy from 1990 at its peak, meaning it was a pleasure to drink but it probably wouldn’t get any better with additional aging.

The wines:

1. Paul Cluver Elgin Estate Pinot Noir 2008 – South Africa

2. Matua Central Otago Estate Pinot Noir 2008 – New Zealand

3. Domaine Jean & Giles Lafourge Auxey-Duresses La Chapelle 1er Cru 2005

4. Domaine Taupenot-Merme Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru 1999 (corked and replaced with Domaine Jacques Prieur Volnay-Santenots 1er Cru 1990)

5. Penner-Ash Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2009 – Oregon

6. Sokol Blosser Big Tree Block Dundee Hills Pinot Noir 2008 – Oregon

7. Walter Hansel South Slope Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2003

8. Au Bon Climat Knox Alexander Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir 2008

Thanks to Jordan for a wonderful tour of Pinot Noir!

Mumm's the word

2011-08-07T17:26:00.000-07:00

Friday we went up to Napa to escape the fog of San Francisco and enjoy some wine tasting before the weekend rush. We went to Mumm Napa, a sparkling wine producer owned by G. H. Mumm in Champagne, France. Most of the wines are made from a base of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, two of the classic Champagne grapes. We had a relaxed patio tasting overlooking the vineyards and mountains, hosted by Claudia, who gave us suggestions for what flights to try. She also let us compare sparkling wine in a regular champagne bottle to that in a magnum - twice the size. Their magnums go through extended lees aging (when the bottles age on the dead yeast cells before disgorgement), so they have more toastiness and complexity to the taste - 7 years aging versus 3 years, as an example. I love these characteristics in Champagne and sparkling wine so it was really exciting to taste the differences. We did this comparison for both the Brut Rose and Brut Reserve. The regular bottles were great but I loved the magnums even more. I love dry pink sparkling wine in general, I think it is the prettiest and most exciting wine to drink, and I've rarely met one I didn't like. The Brut Rose Magnum was so delicious. And the Brut Reserve Magnum was magnumificent!

We also liked their DVX line of wines, which go through some neutral barrel aging and partial malolactic fermentation before bottling for the second fermentation. Traditionally, still wine designated for sparkling wine is stainless steel fermented and extremely acidic, which helps its longevity and age-ability going into the second fermentation. DVX is softened a bit before the second fermentation, but the acidity still remains in the finished wine, so it had this amazing creaminess and crispness in an interesting balance. (Malolactic fermentation is a process whereby the natural malic acid present in the grape juice/wine is converted to lactic acid, a softer acid found in milk. This fermentation happens naturally at the right temperature, and most red wines go through it. Some winemakers allow white wines like Chardonnay to go through ML, but for other wines they usually avoid it by cold-stabilizing the white wine.)

Champagne bottles in various sizes - as they get bigger they have funny names like Jeroboam, Methusalem, Salmanzar, Balthazar, and Nebuchadnezzar.

Thanks to Claudia for a fantastic experience at Mumm Napa!

Great Whites of Burgundy @ SFWC

2011-08-03T21:50:00.000-07:00

As the fog rolled in yesterday evening at the San Francisco Wine Center we sat down for some white Burgundy with Jordan Mackay, James Beard Award-winning author, in Wine School. First, a flight of 2009′s from different areas of Burgundy whet our appetites for the more complex wines in the second half of the tasting. From razor sharp to lightly toasted, these wines were pretty classic in their representation. Chablis was mouthwatering and minerally, Poully Fuisse was citrusy with a bit more body, and Beaune was toasty yet still crisp.

Then we moved on to a few wines with some age on them and a bit more weight and complexity. The Mersault was really interesting with a mix of anise and ash on the nose and palate. Unfortunately the 2002′s were showing a bit of “premox,” or premature oxidation, a problem in Burgundian whites from vintages between 1995 and 2005. The exact source of the problem hasn’t been pinpointed, but possibilities include lowered sulphur dioxide treatments, cork seal failure, shape of bottle neck, and other theories. The result is wines showing oxidation before their time. The grand finale of the tasting was the real treat – Domaine Faiveley Bienvenues Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2009. It was creamy, crisp, complex, and long.

Jordan’s explanation of Burgundy’s regions, the differences in soil types and locations, and the classification system of the vineyards was really helpful.

The wines:

Domaine William Fevre Chablis 2009
Joseph Drouhin Saint-Veran 2009
Vincent Giradin Pouilly-Fuisse VV 2009
Domaine Bouchard Pere & Fils Beaune du Chateau 1er Cru 2009
Chateau Laboure-Roi Meursault Clos des Bouches Cheres 1er Cru 2004
Domaine de la Vougeraie Vougeot Clos de Prieure Monopole 2002
Boyer-Martenot Puligny-Montrachet Le Cailleret 1er Cru 2002
Domaine Faiveley Bienvenues Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2009

Thanks for the education on Burgundian Chardonnay, Jordan!

More Rioja!

2011-07-28T10:57:00.000-07:00

I guess Rioja is my wine of the month, if I had one! Yesterday came the sad news of the passing of Enrique Forner, founder of Marques de Caceres, the iconic Spanish Rioja brand. This is my go-to value wine, with the Crianza priced around $10. It is consistent and always tasty. I actually have a bottle at home right now.

Last week we had our Wines of Spain tasting class at SFWC, featuring 3 wines from Rioja, a white and 2 reds. The white Rioja from 1993 was very unique, with an almost Sherry-like expression on the nose but a creaminess on the palate. Great acidity and dry with complex flavors of marzipan and meringue. Six years of aging so the oak was very well integrated. The wine is composed of estate grown Viura (90%) and Malvasía (10%), traditional Spanish white grapes in the region.

Viva Rioja!

Wines of Spain @ SFWC

2011-07-20T19:42:00.000-07:00

This week in wine school Jordan Mackay, James Beard-award winning author, took us on a tour of Spain. We traveled to Cataluna – home of Cava; Rias Baixas – home of Albarino; Rueda – home of Verdejo; Navarra – home of Garnacha; Rioja – home of Tempranillo; Ribera del Duero – another Tempranillo hotspot; and Priorat – famed for Garnacha, Carignan, Cab Sauv, Merlot, and Syrah. From value wines to coveted classics and newcomers, Spain runs the gamut. The Cava, Albarino, and Verdejo were all refreshing, lively and costing around $20 or less. The 1993 White Rioja was super complex, with Sherry-like notes and a creaminess that was very unique. One of our storage members, Shirley, brought a 2005 Rioja to share, and we compared this with the 2004 Muga in our lineup. Muga is a more traditional producer and they use mostly French oak, whereas the Remirez de Ganuza that Shirley brought was a more modern style, more fruit-forward with heavy American oak. The last two wines were very special, high-end wines from Ribera del Duero and Priorat. They had a complexity and finesse that was noticeable, and the class loved these wines. Personally the Bodegas Emilio Moro Malleolus Valderramiso 2007 from Ribera del Duero was my favorite!

The wines:

1. Segura Viudas Reserva Heredad Cava

2. Fillaboa Albariño 2009 – Rias Baixas

3. Condesa Eylo Verdejo 2008 – Rueda

4. R. Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia White Rioja 1993

5. El Chaparral de Vega Sondoa Garnacha 2009 – Navarra

6. Muga Prado Enea Gran Reserva Rioja 2004

Bonus: Remirez de Ganuza Rioja 2005

7. Bodegas Emilio Moro Malleolus Valderramiso 2007 – Ribera del Duero

8. Dits del Terra Priorat 2005 – Garnacha & Carignan

Salud!

Still a lot of life in this one

2011-07-05T18:30:00.000-07:00

This past weekend my boyfriend's family visited and we celebrated his mom's 60th birthday with a bottle of 1951 Rioja (actually 2 bottles). Incredible wine! It was a brick red color with just a bit of sediment. Lots of stewed fruit and warm spice on the nose and palate - very smooth yet lively. We had the first bottle with some cheeses from Cowgirl Creamery. The cork was a bit moldy on top under the foil capsule, so we were worried the wine wouldn't be good, and it crumbled as we tried to extract the half that just didn't want to come out, but underneath it all the wine was fantastic. The second bottle was decanted in a restaurant and had a chance to really open up, so it was even better than the first, especially with the lamb and duck dishes we had at Boulevard in San Francisco. What a treat!

Happy 60th Birthday, Nancy!

Roll out the barrel

2011-07-01T18:11:00.000-07:00

Recently I visited a wine bar in San Francisco called Barrique, aptly named because they serve wine out of barrels. They vinify some of their own wine, either from purchased grapes or juice, or they acquire bulk wine and barrel age it and blend it themselves. They only make 60 gallons of any wine - enough to fill one barrel. They then serve it from these barrels behind the bar. Interesting business model. The barrique-to-glass system is patent-pending, so they couldn't tell us anything about the delivery system, but I imagine there must be some sort of airtight bag inside that keeps oxygen out as the wine level goes down.

The wine list features their own wines plus a couple of well known bubblies to get your palate ready for these big California wines. I recommend the Sommelier's flight of 3 wines to get a good sampling. I started with the J Russian River Valley Brut Rose sparkling wine and then tried some of the Barrique Selections. I thought the Cabs were the best of the bunch, but the offerings change frequently so there's always a reason to go back. The truffle popcorn was a fantastic accompaniment to the wines :)

Brown Zin

2011-06-27T18:15:00.000-07:00

I've found a new favorite - Brown Estate Zinfandel 2009. I tried it at a friend's house and loved it - smooth, chocolatey, spicy, dark-fruity. So enjoyable on its own. Then, I tried it at Ubuntu in Napa, a vegetarian restaurant that really knows what to do with veggies. They made a bean stew taste meaty without any fake meat or seitan or anything. I was surprised by the number of reds on their wine list and decided that the wine pairing must have been very well thought-out. I wanted the Zin anyway, not caring if it went with the meal. It was just as enjoyable as the first time, if not more so. I've come to the conclusion that Zinfandel can be a very versatile red, pairing well with meats, of course, but also with lighter meals (of veggies) and even on its own. Perhaps because some Zins have a touch of sweetness from those ripe California grapes. If it's a lower alcohol Zin (I'm talking 14% or lower), there's probably going to be some residual sugar. If it tastes like chocolate, I want it. Less calories! (Maybe?)

Brown Estate is a family-owned vineyard in Napa. The waitress at Ubuntu said they tried all their different wines and loved them all. This winery is definitely on my list the next time I plan a trip.

Ridge Bloggers Tasting #2 - A Monte Bello Vertical

2011-06-21T16:32:00.000-07:00

Last Friday I was lucky enough to attend my second blogger's tasting at Ridge Vineyards, my favorite California winery. The theme is always a surprise, so I was very excited as I ascended the 4 mile hill to Monte Bello in the Santa Cruz Mountains. I arrived and almost walked in on another event in the same location as the last tasting, but I was quickly redirected to the brand-new Black Mountain Room, where our tasting had just begun. Cheeses and bread were ours for the taking, 2009 Chardonnay was poured in our glasses to prime our palates, and then the theme was revealed: an 11-year library vertical of Monte Bello! Recall that Monte Bello is Ridge's famous Bordeaux-style blend, based heavily on Cabernet Sauvignon, followed by Merlot and small/varying amounts of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.

I was thrilled by this theme. The oldest Monte Bello I have had was a 1989, and I loved it. And then, a challenge was posed: order the wines from oldest to youngest. The wines were all in brown bags, lettered from A-K. We tasted them blind, 2 at a time, noting the color, sediment, aromas, and structural development. These are the things you should observe to deduce the age of a wine. Is it bright purple, or more brick red? Does the nose give off fresh fruit or more dried, stewed fruit, or none at all? Are the tannins grippy or soft, or is there heavy sediment where tannins once lived? I focused on these attributes. I am not an overly competitive person, but there was a prize for the winner! I love prizes.

So, 2 by 2 we went. Fellow bloggers tweeted while we tasted, and a "Twitterfall" was displayed on a large flatscreen TV behind, showing the tweets as they came in. (I was the only person not tweeting. Am I missing out here?) We were mostly silent except for the occasional comment on a tweet or about the wines' ages or flavors.With each pair, I made comparisons to the previous. A is younger than B, F is older than G, F and G are older than A and B, etc. It was like a puzzle. At the end, everyone recorded their final order and then Christopher unveiled the wines in the correct order. He asked who had the most correct placements. It was me! I won the contest, with 7 out of 11 correct!

And what was my prize? A bottle of the 2010 Monte Bello, a tank sample, not even filtered yet! I might age it for around 20 years, given that I tend to prefer the Monte Bello's from the '80s and '90s.

Not to generalize, but all the wines were amazing. The ones from the '70s were fascinating in their differences, with subtle changes in flavor and structure from 1977 to 1978. The 1981 and 1985 were beautiful, with fruit and softness and a complex earthiness. The '90s were bright and spicy, and 2000 and 2006 were vibrant and fruity, with grippy tannins. The 2010 barrel sample was in a class by itself, bright purple with inky dark fruit and firm structure.

I'm very grateful to be part of the Ridge blogger family. Thanks to Christopher for including me!

Check out Ridge's blog for more:

http://blog.ridgewine.com/2011/06/21/wine-bloggers-tasting-2-6-17-11-the-aftermath/

Bubbles, bubbles everywhere, but not a drop to drink... yet!

2011-06-03T12:10:00.000-07:00

Champagne was on tap this week at San Francisco Wine Center, where our class highlighted the awesomeness of Champagne with some very special bubblies. We had a great sampling of vintage and non-vintage plus a trio of pinks. There is no prettier wine than a glass of pink Champagne. I loved the Billecart-Salmon Cuvee Elisabeth, the first "prestige" Champagne I've ever had. This retails for around $150-$200 per bottle. My pics are blurry still but I think I may have solved the problem so I hope next time is better. For now, these will have to suffice. Think of it as looking at Champagne through bubble-filled glasses.

Billecart-Salmon Cuvee Elisabeth Salmon Brut Rose 1998

Check out the SFWC blog for the full list of Champagnes!

Searching for Syrah

2011-05-27T08:26:00.000-07:00

Lately I've been craving meaty, smoky Syrahs - the kind that remind you of bacon at Sunday brunch. It started when I first moved out here and visited a wine bar in my neighborhood where we got a glass of 2009 Emmanuel Darnaud Crozes-Hermitage Mise en Bouche, a classic Northern Rhone French Syrah. I've been looking for something similar ever since. Recently I encountered 2 that fit the bill. The first one materialized at an event we co-hosted last Friday night at the San Francisco Wine Center with Wine Gavel, an online wine auctioneer. We invited our storage clients, and someone ran down to their storage locker during the event and grabbed a bottle of this to share with everyone:

Alesia Santa Lucia Highlands Fairview Ranch Vineyard 2006

Unfortunately I didn't see the person and no one I asked could tell me who it was. But it was really delicious, and I'm glad this mystery person donated it!

Then, this week, one of the guys at work was making a delivery for a storage client and they gave him a couple bottles of wine as a thank-you. He brought them back to SFWC and shared them with us. The storage couple made the wine at Crushpad, a custom crush facility in Sonoma. I loved their 2006 Syrah "The Bailout." Really smoky and meaty with a touch of dark fruit. Full bodied, really smooth. I'm going to look into getting some of this - I hear they are looking to sell some bottles.

Both these wines are from Santa Barbara county, which I've heard is a great place for Syrah. Clearly I already have a preference for this area. Maybe I better plan a weekend trip down there.

Just in time for Memorial Day - Grilling Wines!

2011-05-26T19:25:00.000-07:00

This week at SFWC we hosted a class on Grilling Wines. We purposely left out Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel and Chardonnay so that we were forced to explore other BBQ wines. I love food and wine pairing, so this was really fun and educational. I actually found a Gruner Veltliner that I like - usually I am underwhelmed by this varietal. I discovered an awesome Italian Lagrein that was really enjoyable on its own and with each of the foods we had.

Unfortunately, the software on my Blackberry updated recently and now my camera takes really blurry pictures. They used to be so good! I don't know what happened. So the labels on these wines aren't clear but you can catch the full names on the SFWC blog.

Happy Memorial Day Weekend! Let me know if you do any interesting wine/grill pairings.

Lagrein Wine

2011-05-26T17:02:00.000-07:00

A couple months ago there was an article in the New York Times about Lagrein, a red grape varietal from northeastern Italy. I read the article and instantly wanted to try this wine, which Eric Asimov described as "deliciously plummy, earthy and chewy, dark and full-bodied but not heavy, with a pronounced minerally edge." Shortly thereafter, I was in Napa with a couple visiting friends and we came across a Lagrein at Imagery Estate Winery. I was primed to like it, and I did. Maybe because I wanted to, because of the article. I got a bottle to take home to my boyfriend, who had sent me the article. We drank it one night with dinner, and we noticed the high alcohol. It was jammy in the California style, and I'm not sure I liked it as much as when I tasted it at the winery. The next morning we were both hungover.

This week at SFWC's Grilling Wines class, I tried one of the well-known Italian Lagrein producers, Hofstätter, and I loved their Lagrein. It was balanced, rich, spicy, and full-bodied without being heavy. The alcohol was probably around 2% lower than the California had been. It was interesting to see the new world vs. old world comparison. I admit I am getting more used to California wine, my tolerance for alcohol and tannin is getting stronger and I have found a lot to like. But in this case I prefer the old world version.

New York Times article: http://www.nytimes.com/2011/03/30/dining/reviews/30wine.html?_r=1&emc=eta1

Old World vs. New World

2011-05-04T22:46:00.000-07:00

This week's class at San Francisco Wine Center was a comparison of Old World (Europe) and New World (everywhere else) wines, and I donated a sample of Hermann J. Wiemer Dry Riesling 2009 to the cause! The 2009 Dry Riesling was recently released, and I am very proud of this wine because I helped make it during my time working at Wiemer. I sorted the grapes, monitored the fermentation, racked the wine, contributed my sensory opinion in putting together the final blend from our 3 Riesling vineyard sites, filtered, bottled and labeled it. Last night, we pinned it against a German Kabinett Riesling from the Rheingau and I thought the Wiemer showed fantastically. I was excited to share this wine with the other employees at the SFWC and the students in the class.

The rest of the comparisons were interesting and intriguing:

Elegant white Burgundy led the way for creamy California Chardonnay:
Olivier Leflaive Puligny Montrachet Les Folatières 1er Cru 2009 (Cote de Beaune, Burgundy) vs. Deovlet Soloman Hills Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Chardonnay 2009 (Santa Barbara, CA)

Delicate Pinots from Burgundy and Oregon stumped many:
Erath Estate Selection Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2008 (Oregon) vs. Domaine Jacques Prieur Beaune Champs-Pimont 1er Cru 2008 (Cote de Beaune, Burgundy)

Popular Argentine Malbec found its roots in Cahors, France:
Château du Cèdre Cahors 2007 (Cahors, Southwest France) vs. Norton Malbec Reserva 2007 (Mendoza, Argentina)

Cabernet-dominated Margaux confused the California Cab drinker:
Blason D’Issan Margaux 2007 (Bordeaux, France) vs. Meteor Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 (Napa Valley, CA)

Burgundy-land

2011-05-04T20:05:00.000-07:00

On Monday at SFWC Mary Burnham was using the space to taste a bunch of wines that she is reviewing for Food & Wine Magazine's 2012 wine buying guide. She had tons of samples open, so she said I could taste them. After I finished work I went through the lineup. Mary was evaluating 2009 white Chablis and Burgundy with a few red Burgs at the end. There were so many to like! I tasted through the whites multiple times, trying to find my favorites.

2009 was a warm vintage in Chablis, a sub-appellation of Burgundy, so these wines are less austere and minerally than usual, but what it means is they are very ready to drink now. I liked the offerings from Domaine Billaud-Simon and Domaine Christian Moreau:

These 2 Burgundy's were awesome. It was the Latour family who transformed the now-famed Corton Charlemagne vineyard from dead Aligote and Pinot Noir vines after prohibition to the coveted Chardonnay that grows there today. The one on the right is a tank sample of Domaine Jacques Prieur. My guess is the wine hadn't been filtered and bottled in time to submit the sample, so they grabbed a tank sample for submission, and therefore it was cloudy. But how delicious it was! Creamy but tart at the same time, lots of layers and complexity.

The few reds sampled were also really awesome expressions of Burgundy. I hadn't had red Burgundy in a while, and after tasting California Pinot Noir for the last few weeks I had forgotten how much I love Burgundy. My palate remembers now, but my wallet does not.

The travesty of a wine reviewer - too many samples!
So I got to take some home :)

Amazing Bordeaux

2011-04-29T10:58:00.000-07:00

Last week's Bordeaux class at SFWC was amazing - tasting 5 decades of Bordeaux was really a special sensory experience. It was unfortunate that the oldest samples were oxidized - 1964 Chateau Leoville Poyferre from Saint-Julien and 1970 Chateau Haut Brion from Pessac Leognan - but that is the risk with older wines, especially when you don't know how they were stored or traveled before you acquired them. Still, my sensory education of Bordeaux over the last few weeks has been fascinating, and in particular I've really enjoyed these wines:

Chateau Brane-Cantenac 2008 - Margaux
Chateau Langoa-Barton 2000 - Saint Julien
Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou 1996 – Saint-Julien
Chateau Beychevelle 1981 – Saint-Julien
Chateau Longueville Baron de Pichon 1978 – Pauillac
Chateau Margaux Pavillon Blanc 2005 – Margaux (white)
Chateau Nairac 1976 – Sauternes (dessert)

I think of my friend Ghislain, Bordeaux native and winemaking student who interned with us at Wiemer for the 2010 harvest, and I wonder what he thinks of these?

Slainte!
(That's 'Cheers' in French!)

Common Scents

2011-04-29T10:38:00.000-07:00

This week's Aromatics class at SFWC was a lot of fun to prepare for and to experience. We gathered a wide variety of "natural" scents - fruits, flowers, spices, vegetables, etc.- to compliment the vials in a Le Nez Du Vin aroma kit, a common tool used by people in the wine industry to train their noses and palates. Since taste is very heavily linked to smell, aromas and flavors are often somewhat consistent. Students went around to different stations and smelled the scents, helping to creating a palate memory before tasting the wines. It is always good to exercise your nose like this, and for beginners especially it is a really useful exercise. I was excited to smell things like juniper berries and currants, scents that I know are way back in my palate memory but have been forgotten.

After everyone had smelled everything, they sat down and went through the tasting blind, identifying aromas in the wines and then checking those identifications against the actual scents that we had gathered. It was very interactive, and everyone agreed that smelling the scents first was really helpful in identifying the scents in the glass. The wines we chose were aromatic expressions of the grape and origin: Australian Riesling, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, Alsatian Gewurz, Oregon Pinot Noir, Rhone Syrah, and red Bordeaux blend.

Next week: Old World vs. New World wines!

My new gig

2011-04-22T16:05:00.000-07:00

I've started working part-time at the San Francisco Wine Center as their Marketing Manager. SFWC is really cool - the concept is based on private wine storage for people who need a place to store their wine (or age it, as the case may be), so we cater to collectors and offer collector services, like sourcing rare wines and handling their wine club shipments. SFWC also offers Wine School, where every week wine lovers can attend classes led by sommeliers, wine writers and other experts in the wine trade. Surprisingly, there are not many places in San Francisco that offer regular wine tastings or classes. When I lived in NYC there were always events like this going on, and finding a tasting class any night of the week was easy. But in San Francisco it is a rarity, so we are really the only game in town. The last two classes have been fantastic, and I've gotten to try some great wines.

Tasting and Describing Wine - April 12

Grand Wines of Bordeaux - April 19

Check out the San Francisco Wine Center blog, where I'll be blogging about the classes every week, and follow us on Facebook!

Over the Hill

2011-04-12T18:16:00.023-07:00

Last weekend I went to a crazy party at a community center in San Bruno, featuring a Zydeco band and honoring the birthday of a friend's mother. I didn't know it was BYOB until I got there, so all I had was a bouquet of flowers for the birthday lady. Someone brought a bottle of 1975 Chateau Ste. Michelle Cabernet Sauvignon, and I was invited to try it. Chateau Ste. Michelle is Washington state's oldest vineyard, dating back to the 1950s after prohibition, and this was the oldest wine I've ever tasted! It was super interesting on the nose, with very developed, almost vegetal aromas plus some stewed fruit. On the palate it had good structure and flavor, very complex but with almost no fruit flavor left. Still, I was impressed, until I got to the finish, which is where it fell off. It was oxidized, unfortunately, so the finish was a bit sour. Maybe 5 years ago the wine would have been at its best. Still, it was really interesting to experience. Thanks to Michael and Stephanie for a great party and for grabbing me to try this!

Buds and Palms

2011-04-08T08:38:00.030-07:00

We've reached bud break here in northern California, and I still can't believe that there are palm trees in the Bay area. Palm trees, to me, belong in tropical areas, not temperate, always-60-degrees-unless-it-goes-down-to-40 San Francisco. But still, there are palm trees in the city and in the surrounding wine areas. I went up to Sonoma this week with some visiting friends to check out more Pinot Noir and sparkling wines. The most exciting stop on the trip was Iron Horse, famous for the fact that its sparkling wines are served at the White House. Iron Horse is located in the Green Valley, a sub-appellation of the Russian River Valley. I loved their 2006 Russian Cuvee, aptly named both because the fruit comes from the Russian River Valley and because it was first served at the Reagan-Gorbachev summit meetings.

I loved the richness and toastiness from the heavy Pinot and extended lees aging (4 years). The White House still orders it, but they prefer it say "Russian River" on the label, so Iron Horse makes a special label for them. (0.8% residual sugar; $38)

Ridge Bloggers Tasting

2011-03-27T18:12:00.011-07:00

My first week in San Francisco I was invited to a bloggers tasting at my favorite California winery, Ridge - I couldn't have been happier! On Friday I headed south to the Santa Cruz Mountains region. Once I got to Monte Bello Road in Cupertino the only place to go was up - 4.5 miles up the mountain where Ridge's Monte Bello tasting room sits along with the Monte Bello vineyard, ranging in elevation from 1300-2700 feet above sea level. Ridge is most known for it's Monte Bello blend, a Cabernet Sauvignon focused Bordeaux blend with varying amounts of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, and for its Zinfandel blends, which also feature Carignane and Petite Sirah. Ridge focuses on wines with a sense of place, so all their wines are single-vineyard wines. The vineyard locations are appropriate for the grapes grown, and they practice sustainable viticulture. Yields are low, natural yeasts are employed, and the wines undergo natural malolactic fermentation in American oak, for the most part.

I was excited by the tasting, since I had not yet been introduced to many wines in the Ridge lineup. My limited but fantastic experience with the wine included 1989 and 1990 Ridge Monte Bello. I was excited by the Monte Bello vertical, as well as the Zins and Syrahs. The wines were accompanied by cheeses from Cowgirl Creamery - a nice addition.

To get things started we first tried their estate Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, grown on the Monte Bello property. I'm not a Chardonnay lover and I tend to prefer white Burgundy over new world Chard, but the Ridge 2009 Estate Chardonnay surprised me. I had never thought I would enjoy so much a California Chardonnay. Ridge's had a mineral, tropical nose and a creamy mouthfeel but also an incredible lightness that I would never expect from an oaked California Chardonnay. The acidity, fruit, minerality and body were so balanced, and it had a smooth, citrusy finish that was almost Champagne-like. Makes sense, since Monte Bello enjoys limestone soil, which is a soil characteristic of Burgundy and Champagne but not so much California. I will go so far as to say this Chardonnay is the best I have ever had! The 2008 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon was also very enjoyable. It had a bright nose of blackberry, spice, and lead pencil that carried through to the palate with a medium body and a smooth, comfortable lightness. It seems to me the limestone soil and microclimate at Monte Bello really are the perfect conditions for these wines.

Next we compared the 1999 and 2009 Geyserville Zin blends. Geyserville is located up north in Sonoma County. I hadn't had Ridge Zin before (or any Zin for quite a while) so I was looking forward to this comparison. The 2009 will be released in April. It is 74% Zinfandel, 17% Carignane, and 6% Petite Sirah. It had licorice, spice and some meatiness on the nose. On the palate it had some dark berry and spice flavors that continued to the luscious finish. I thought the body and weight were really balanced, and I enjoyed my re-introduction to Zin with this wine. The 1999 (68% Zin, 16% Carignane, 16% P. Sirah) was a real treat - it had a more vegetal nose that kept evolving as it sat, with some dill, warm baking spice, and dried red fruit coming through. On the palate there was an interesting mix of eucalyptus and mint with that dried fruit and spice. It was a bit more rustic than its younger self but super interesting - I loved it. I could see how Geyserville would be rewarding both younger and older.

Following was the Monte Bello 10-year vertical. This time we started with the oldest. The 1985 was incredible and the oldest Ridge wine I have tasted. The nose was complex, with dried cherry, nutmeg, clove, and a bit of corn chowder coming through. On the palate it still had a surprising acidity and good grip from the tannins, which had smoothed out but were still firm. It still had a lot of fruit and spice coming through and did not taste like a 25-year old wine. The composition was 93% Cab and 7% Merlot, and the alcohol was 13.1%. This is important to note because a lot of California wines have very high alcohols (15%!), and people like this. I prefer a lower alcohol wine, and Monte Bello has always been around 12 - 13%. The 1995 Monte Bello was very interesting, with more brooding, dark flavors. It was richer and had more weight, with dark black fruit, leather, and spice. This one could definitely age another 10 years. The 2005 Monte Bello was very fruit-forward with a pretty vanilla spice character and good grip. I liked the spicy finish. This too will age for 20 years!

The next treat was a comparison of 2 small production Syrahs from the Lytton Springs vineyard in Sonoma. We were lucky enough to have one of the last available bottles of the 2004, so I didn't want to like it too much. It was blended with 10% Viognier and 8% Grenache from 50-100 year old vines. It was beautiful, with blueberry, chocolate, and cinnamon notes. I hoped the 2006 would be just as good - I have been on a Syrah kick lately so I am looking for favorites. The 2006 was the winner - and it is not even out yet so I know there is more where this bottle came from. Warm spice, cocoa, and a touch of that meatiness that I love about Syrah, plus only 14.4% alcohol. I loved the smooth chocolateyness of it and I was happy to like it even more than the 2004. When this is released in April I will definitely be looking for it.

To finish, a fellow blogger had brought 2 mystery wines. I think most people expected them to be Ridge, but I tried to keep an open mind. I had just met these people so I didn't know how they liked to play. The first wine seemed at least 10 years old and had a funky nose of mushroom and sweat. Not attractive, I know. I thought it could be Italian - it seemed very old world. The next one also looked like it could be about 10 years old, but it smelled hugely different, almost fortified, with a confectionary nose of dried fruit and creme brulee. On the palate it had surprisingly grippy tannin and raspberry jam taste. I was stumped - and they both turned out to be Ridge Dry Creek Sangiovese from 1997 and 1998. I was right about their ages, and Sangiovese is a grape of Italian origin so I had that going for me. Ridge no longer makes Sangiovese; the vines had been pulled out.

A very interesting conclusion to a fantastic lineup of Ridge wines. I feel very lucky that I was able to participate in this tasting and meet so many other Ridge enthusiasts. I am looking forward to my next Ridge experience!

Check out these other blogs from fellow tasters:

www.givemegrapes.com
www.NorCalWine.com
http://bartonorchard.blogspot.com/
http://batonnage.net/

And Ridge's own blog:
http://blog.ridgewine.com/

Take a Napa

2011-03-25T06:17:00.010-07:00

It's been raining since I got to San Francisco, which I really cannot complain about since New York just got another snowstorm. I thought maybe if I went up to Napa the weather would be better, but it was the same, rainy and gray with flooded vineyards. They get most of their rain in winter (and early spring apparently), and then the rest of the year will be sunny. Part of my quest for what's next involves sampling the region's wines. After all, how can I determine which winery I would want to work for if I haven't sampled their wines?

First I went to Darioush, which looks like a Persian palace. Impeccable customer service awaits as you view their stainless steel tanks overlaying a blue tile floor and press pad overlooking their estate vineyards. Despite the lavish decoration, you can still see a working winery. Here I learned that a lot of wineries in Napa harvest at night, when the grapes have cooled off from the intense sun. Darioush then sorts the grapes first thing in the morning, first the clusters as they go into the crusher/de-stemmer and then the individual berries as they come out. Their 2009 Viognier was floral and pretty, with good acidity. I was surprised by the alcohol - 14.8% - because I didn't really notice it. I really enjoyed their 2008 Russian River Pinot Noir, which had some great spice overlaying the cherry and tobacco notes. It had good body and structure but a comfortable lightness. The 2007 Merlot was very bright, with raspberry and baking spice flavors. The 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon was the best of the tasting - remember that I normally don't like young Cabs, but I loved this one! It was so smooth, with delicious blueberry, currant, chocolate and spice, balanced by great acidity. This is their best seller and their largest production at the winery with 7,000-10,000 cases made per year. It goes for $80 a bottle!

At Signorello, their wines are nicely balanced and elegant. They spend a lot of time in the vineyard, keeping yields low, allowing a small amount of fruit to battle for nutrients. They have 42 acres and produce only 5500 cases. I'd probably want to cellar most of the reds for a few years. The 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon was my favorite, smooth with chewy cocoa and spice and nice acidity and tannin.

My last stop was Far Niente, where I toured the property, which includes an acre of underground caves where they store their wine in barrels. It is the perfect temperature and humidity for wine storage and aging. They only make two wines, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. We had 2 Cabs, one from 2000 and one from 2008. I liked the older one better, but the 2008 had some great fruit and spice, with good grip from the tannin; I could see how it would age well. They also have another label called Dolce, which is a sweet Sauternes-like dessert wine made from Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc. This was a beautiful wine. They did a great wine and cheese pairing, which was a really nice way to finish the rainy day.

Chardonnay is Queen and Cabernet Sauvignon is King out here, so my education of these two wines continues...

A Fond Finger Lakes Farewell

2011-03-15T09:54:00.000-07:00

After working 2 harvests with Hermann J. Wiemer and getting involved in all aspects of winemaking, I am taking this great experience to California in search of new skills to add on. My Finger Lakes family bid me a memorable goodbye with a fantastic wine tasting of 16 wines from around the world. The theme, as it usually is, was to try to stump everyone. Points were given for accurate guessing of varietal(s), origin, vintage and price. I won first place, but I think they were being nice.

The lineup was extremely varied, and without really planning it we ended up with a interesting comparison of wines from around the world.

Riesling from Germany and Ohio:

Gewurztraminer from Hungary and Chile:

Pinot Noir from Germany, France, and Oregon:

Red blends from Bordeaux, South Africa, and Languedoc:

My favorite was the Chassagne Montrachet from Burgundy, France. I was excited by the Prieure-Lichine from Bordeaux because my FLX family got me a bottle for my birthday last year, and after trying theirs that night and the day after (1 day of aeration helped a lot - it is still very tight) I am looking forward to aging mine another 10 years.

Thanks to everyone for the wines, the lessons, the fun, the experience.

Be sure to follow my adventures in California, as soon as I figure out what they will be!

Act 2 of the Final Act, if that exists

2011-03-06T18:11:00.001-08:00

Last week we dosed and disgorged our 2006 Cuvee Brut, the bulk of our sparkling wine output for this winter. This is the 3rd disgorging of 2006 Cuvee Brut, with additional time of the lees than the previous 2 disgorgings. The additional time gave it some really nice toastiness and complexity - this bubbly is a beauty. It was a larger bottling than the Blanc de Noir from a few weeks ago - 1700 bottles versus 300. So it was a long day! The bottles are now all corked and caged and ready to go. Go Team Wiemer!

The final act: dosage and disgorge

2011-02-17T16:59:00.002-08:00

Last weekend we disgorged the Wiemer Blanc de Noir 2006 (Pinot Noir dominated with some Chardonnay). It was so exciting! After riddling and keeping the bottles really cold, it was time for the final act. We had prepared the dosage the night before (this is the wine and sugar mixture that determines the final sweetness of the sparkling wine, added as the liqueur d'expédition), using some still Chardonnay and an addition of sugar. We tasted 3 different possibilities with varying quantities of sugar before deciding on the final dosage - this was fun. It was amazing to taste how the dosage changed/improved the wine and the differences between the quantities. In the end we went for the monkey in the middle, which was rich and refreshing. Less sugar and the wine felt acidic/awkward, more sugar made it too soft and killed the finish.

The Doser.

With the dosage ready to go, we set up the equipment and ourselves - everyone had an important task. Someone to disgorge (uncap the bottles so the yeast plug is expelled), someone to add the liqueur d'expédition, someone to put each bottle through the corker, someone to get each bottle caged with wire, and someone to clean the bottles. I was on the wire cage machine (I don't know what it is really called). The corker puts the cork in about halfway, and then the wire cage machine clamps the wire cage (placed by me) over the cork and the rim of the bottle, smushing the cork down a bit so it has that classic mushroom appearance. This creates a really tight seal on the bottle - keeping the wine and bubbles in. I liked being on the wire cage machine.

Our sparkling wine equipment is traditional, meaning hand-operated, but it works. You have to deeply appreciate this glorious drink once you see and experience all the steps that go into it, when done by hand without fancy modern machines. For all the blood, sweat and tears we should probably charge a lot more per bottle - but it will likely go for around $30. What a bargain!

Princess of Pinot - sparkling and still

2011-02-06T19:12:00.001-08:00

Last weekend I visited the Carneros wine region of California, a wine region just north of San Francisco that covers the southern portions of both Sonoma and Napa. Carneros was designated an AVA (American Viticultural Area) because of its soil and climate. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir thrive there, so sparkling wine is a large focus of many wineries in the area.

We visited Acacia Vineyard first, where we tasted a bunch of their single-vineyard Pinot Noir. I liked their 2006 Beckstoffer-Las Amigas Vineyard bottling best, better than the current release of 2007. The Beckstoffer vineyard was very old and they actually pulled the vines out in 2008 because it was yielding so little fruit.

At Gloria Ferrer, a sparkling wine producer owned by Spanish sparkling wine producer Freixenet (you know that $10 Cava in the black bottle?), we had a tour of their facility and tasted some bubblies. My favorite was the 2002 Royal Cuvee, a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir that aged for 5 years on the lees. This amount of aging resulted in really toasty flavors that I liked.

Domaine Carneros, owned by Taittinger, is a beautiful property that I first visited in 2004. They produce sparkling wine and Pinot Noir. First we had a tour and tasted some of their sparkling wines. The best bubbly of the bunch was their 2005 Le Rêve Blanc de Blancs, their premium bottling. We tasted a few of their current release Pinot Noir bottlings before meeting their Pinot Noir winemaker, TJ Evans, who then gave us the behind-the-scenes tour. We had some pre-sparkling tank samples and then 5 barrel samples of Pinot Noir - all different clones. In California they are very focused on clones and how they differ in terms of flavor and structure. Different lots are often blended with the proportions of the different clones in mind. At Wiemer, we grow Pinot Noir clones 115 and 777. I tried those at Domaine Carneros plus 3 others. It was interesting to taste the differences between the clones and also to compare their same clones to ours at Wiemer.

One of the cool things about visiting both these sparkling wine producers was seeing the machinery they use for riddling and disgorging. This is a gyropallete, which riddles 500 bottles at once in about 3 days. Remember how we were hand-riddling at Wiemer for 3 weeks?

North of Carneros, outside the city of Sonoma, we visited Buena Vista Winery and tasted some bigger reds - a highlight of the trip. Their 2006 Ramal Vineyard Pinot Noir Swan Selection was the best from the weekend. I also liked their Merlot, Syrah, and a couple of wines from the 2005 Atlas Peak collection - Cabernet Sauvignon and Claret (a Bordeaux blend). But I have to say that I only liked the Cab after our server sent it through the Vinturi aerator 3 times, which is supposed to be equivalent to a year of aging in the cellar or an hour in a decanter with each pass - this was after I told him I only like Cabs when they are old. It is interesting that every winery sells the Vinturi. I wonder if it is because many of the wines in California are very fruit-forward and in-your-face, but some people like their wines a bit more demure, with a little more age on them.

I didn't know this at the time, but Buena Vista Winery got all of their plants from the Hermann J. Wiemer nursery. Everything comes full circle!

Light my fire

2011-01-25T04:18:00.011-08:00

Monday morning temperatures in the FLX were projected to be below 0 degrees Fahrenheit, and we were concerned about the vines at Wiemer Vineyard. There is a risk that with such extreme cold the vines may shut down. A plan was devised to light controlled fires throughout our 3 vineyard sites, surrounding the vines with warm pockets of air that would hopefully move through the vineyards with the winds. Over the weekend, piles of wood pallets were arranged strategically around the perimeter of the vineyards, keeping the direction of the winds in mind. Early Monday morning we gathered to light the fires. Temperatures along the west side of Seneca lake were ranging from -2 to -8. The coldest temperatures were expected between 6 and 7am. At 4:30am we began lighting the fires using small fire starters and a bit of newspaper and then dousing the piles with diesel fuel to really get them going. As we worked around the vineyard, you could feel the heat.

We finished lighting the fires by 6am. The coldest temperatures were actually at about 7:30am that morning. Hopefully, our efforts raised the average temperature of the vineyards by a degree or two, enough to reach that unknown threshold by which vines can sustain extreme cold. We won't know until the spring when the plants begin to bud and flower.

Photos taken by our in-house photographer.

Riddle me this

2010-12-28T17:36:00.000-08:00

Winter at Wiemer winery is a time for catching up on records, monitoring fermentations, and riddling sparkling wine. We pulled out the riddling racks 2 weeks ago and set up to riddle the 3rd disgorging of our 2006 Cuvee Brut, a dry sparkling wine comprised of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. We are experimenting a little with this sparkling wine to see how varying amounts of time on the lees affect the flavors. Aging on the lees tends to impart classic Champagne flavors to a sparkling wine, like brioche and biscuit. The current release of 2006 Cuvee Brut was disgorged in 2009, and it has some really lively, toasty flavors. The process of riddling includes a partial turn of every bottle each day for 3 weeks, with the intent being to force the yeast sediment (the lees) from the second fermentation into the neck of the bottle so it can be removed during disgorgement.

With each turn the line of sediment gradually cleans the inside of the bottle, resulting in a clear wine. After the riddling cycle has been completed, the bottles will be stored completely upside down until it is time for disgorgement. During disgorgement, we'll take the bottles outside in the dead of winter when it is good and cold so that the sediment in the necks freezes. Then we'll open the bottles, the yeast plug will shoot out, and we'll top off, cork, seal, and label the bottles. This should happen sometime in January or February. In the meantime, I'll keep turning.

Top 100 Wine

2010-12-12T12:00:00.000-08:00

Wine Spectator has announced its Top 100 most exciting wines of the year, and Hermann J. Wiemer's Dry Riesling Reserve 2008 made the list! 2008 was an exceptional vintage for the Finger Lakes and for us. Our wines have been scored the highest in our history by the major trade publications. We are very proud of this recognition and the wine - we just wish we had more of it! A limited quantity still remains; I'm glad I bought a half-case before we even knew about the award.

Pre-Thanksgiving dinner

2010-11-25T09:37:00.004-08:00

Last night at my boyfriend's parents' house we had a decadent pre-Thanksgiving dinner, featuring rack of veal and 2 cellar treasures. Both wines were twenty years old and the corks were a bit soft. So, after they crumbled under the corkscrew we ran the wines through a coffee filter and into a decanter (and vase, as the case was for the second bottle!). I don't know if there is a gizmo out there to filter out disintegrated cork but if not maybe this is an invention waiting to happen. The filtering and decanting exercise was actually great for aerating the wines. Older wines tend to need a little time to open up so this was perfect.

The 1990 Ridge Monte Bello from California was a mix of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Petit Verdot. It was expressive and fruity with a little spice and really smooth oak. The 1989 Lynch-Bages from Bordeaux was more complex and richer, with deeper tobacco and coffee nuances layered over the dark fruit.

Both wines went great with the rack of veal.

Happy pre-Thanksgiving!

Second Harvest

2010-11-14T19:37:00.000-08:00

When I hear Second Harvest I think of the Wiemer Nursery, which we harvest in early to mid November after all the grapes have been pressed to tanks and the reds are fermenting in bins. But for wine, some consider the harvesting of botritysed fruit or fruit left on the vine for another reason to be the second harvest. Seneca Lake's Bloomer Creek vineyard, located on the 'other' side of the lake (the east side) makes a dry second harvest wine from botrytised Riesling. Where we would make dessert wine from this fruit, they let it ferment dry instead of stopping the fermentation and leaving the high residual sugar that makes some of the best dessert wines. I tried this wine at Stella's, a bar and restaurant in Cornell's collegetown. It smells typical of a late harvest wine, with apricot, honey, and some botrytis spice. But then on the palate it is dry, with rich flavors that are not quite in balance with the crisp acidity and high alcohol for a Riesling. Interesting - but I think this fruit is better suited to the dessert wines so cherished in Germany, Sauternes, and at Hermann J. Wiemer.

Wiemer vs. old and new - a wine dinner

2010-11-07T08:33:00.059-08:00

This week some friends of Wiemer winery hosted a dinner for us featuring our wine. It was meant to be a comparison of old world versus new world for 3 varieties that we make: Riesling, Cabernet Franc, and Pinot Noir. We started with a tank sample of our HJW Single Vineyard Riesling, in the early stages of fermentation. Wine at this stage is called Federweiser in German. It is sweet and effervescent and very exciting at this stage. With the traditional German onion tart, it was a delightful way to begin the evening.

The food was all delicious, and the pairings were excellent. Now for the wines...

The first course presented our 2005 Riesling next to one from Alsace, France (old world) and one from Oregon (new world). Hands down, I enjoyed our Riesling the most, with its vibrant acidity and impeccable balance - a great compliment to the smoked rainbow trout. The Alsatian Riesling fell a bit flat, and the Oregon Riesling was a bit too rubbery for me.

The Cabernet Franc comparison was great, with our Reserve standing up quite well to the classic home of Cabernet Franc - Chinon, France. The California Cab Franc was very fruit forward but lacked the complexity of the other two. I'd say we tied with France in this comparison.

The last course was interesting and the results surprised me. Having taken a trip to Oregon a few years ago to explore their Pinot Noir, I had high hopes for the Benton Lane. However, I was taken with the German Spatburgunder (their name for Pinot Noir) from Baden. This was my favorite wine of the evening. Earthy, luxurious, balanced - it was a pleasure to drink. I believe this is the style we are going for with our Pinot Noir, and our 2008 is showing great promise. The Benton Lane tasted over extracted and thin, which was disappointing.

I've always known that I prefer old world wines - they tend to be refined, balanced, comfortable. This exercise reinforced the fact that we are going for this style at Hermann J. Wiemer, and I think we are heading in the right direction.

Thanks again to Ross and Heide for hosting such a delicious and educational dinner!

Cellar Treasures

2010-10-31T14:25:00.021-07:00

I thought I didn't like Cabernet Sauvignon until I had a 22-year old one from Caymus Vineyards in Califonia that was as smooth as silk. I thought Merlot was a simple, fruity, easy-drinking wine for burgers until I had an old one from Washington that was so complex I thought it was Bordeaux. I thought Bordeaux blends had no comparison until I had the 1989 Ridge Monte Bello from California (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot).

So, I guess what I've learned is that for me, Cabernet Sauvignon should be at least legal before I drink it; well-made wines may be even more rewarding/exciting/complex if you wait a decade or two to drink them; and finally, try anything, because you never know what you may like (or love!).

Machine harvesting do's and don't's

2010-10-11T16:34:00.001-07:00

DO follow behind and pick up what gets missed - the machine is not perfect and every little grape helps

DON'T follow too close behind or you'll miss the fall foliage and the fresh air in the vineyard

DON'T let the picked grapes sit too long after harvesting - their close contact with the leaves and stems can impart an unwanted 'steminess' to the juice

DO sort quickly, removing as many leaves and stems as possible, as well as any other M.O.G. (Material Other than Grapes)

DO run the grapes through the Crusher/De-stemmer to further eliminate M.O.G.

Finally, DON'T machine harvest unless you are under time pressure! Hand-picking is usually best.

Harvest mascots

2010-09-18T18:54:00.001-07:00

Since I've been working at a winery I am now very much at home with nature. Snake in the vineyard - big deal. Bugs and worms on the sorting table - no problem. Recently there have been some cute animals wandering into the winery.

First day of harvest - this guy jumped in:

The frog eventually hopped out when he saw how busy we were bringing in the first juice of the harvest.

And the other day, this pretty lady flew in:

Sarah, our intern from Germany, caught this Hummingbird and set it free.

Gewurz me

2010-09-18T07:54:00.009-07:00

Last week we harvested the first block of Gewurztraminer from our Josef vineyard up in Dresden, NY. For the first picking of Gewurztraminer we focus on capturing crisp, natural acidity in the grapes. Usually 2 weeks later we will harvest the rest, giving it time to develop more rich, ripe flavors and higher natural sugar content.

The Magdalena block will hang another week or so before we harvest it:

Gewurz grapes are my favorite wine grapes to eat, so I don't mind the fact that the sorting takes a long time. I eat my way through it. Sometimes you just have to sample the grapes to make sure the bunch is good enough to go into the press. If it's underripe, we reject it. Good grapes in, good wine out.

Do you remember?

2010-09-12T19:34:00.003-07:00

Just as harvest was beginning we went back to bottling - just the wine for sparkling was left for this bottling cycle. We had added the sugar back in August (remember this is a crucial step in sparkling winemaking because the yeast need something to eat in order for the second bubble-producing fermentation to occur) and were waiting for the yeast. Once we added the yeast, we inoculated by adding a bit of wine to the right amount of yeast to get things going. We let it sit overnight and then for another full day before we added it to the tank and mixed it into the wine. Then we were ready to bottle - first the Chardonnay for Blanc de Blanc, and then the Pinot Noir for Brut Rose. This time bottling was a little different since instead of using corks we use metal caps. This closure ensures a tight seal so the wine can undergo the second fermentation in the bottle without losing any of the carbon dioxide (or exploding/leaking). A team of 5 of us carefully ran the bottles through the line and the capper, and then arranged the bottles in horizontal stacks in wooden bins. The bottles will stay like this for about 2 and a half years. The actual fermentation will only take a couple of weeks, but then the wine will sit on the dead yeast cells, or lees, for an extended period of time. (In French this position is called en tirage.) The contact with the lees actually contributes to the classic Champagne-like flavors that are so desired in a sparkling wine - toasty, biscuity, brioche characteristics.

The Chardonnay Blanc de Blanc is in the classic green Champagne bottle:

The Pinot Noir Brut Rose looks so pretty in its clear bottle:

Dancing in September

2010-09-07T19:24:00.004-07:00

It's the most wonderful time of the year - not Christmas - Harvest! 3 weeks earlier than last year, we started picking. First up was the Chardonnay for sparkling wine. We usually do this first to capture the natural acidity that is so necessary for wine that is meant to sparkle. Because of the warm spring and summer we had to start before Labor Day. Starting Friday and throughout the Labor Day weekend we picked from an old section of the HJW vineyard that hadn't bore fruit since 2003. We got about 7 tons in total from those vines! I spent the first day preparing for the grapes by getting the presses cleaned and ready. We weren't totally prepared since we'd just come off 3 weeks of bottling. So it was a bit of a triathlon to get everything ready for harvest. We had a very productive (if long) weekend but I didn't mind because I am so excited for harvest! Stay tuned for more as we gradually start bringing in the 2010 vintage.

Bottling - what a workout

2010-08-31T14:58:00.001-07:00

Who needs a gym? Lifting, lunges, squats and cardio - you can get it all on the bottling line. The last few weeks we have been furiously bottling the 2009 white wines at Wiemer to free up tank space for the fast-approaching 2010 harvest. I'm at the beginning of the line, putting the bottles on and controlling the flow of the wine. Sounds easy enough, right? The challenge is keeping up with the line while monitoring fill heights and making sure everything runs smoothly - the spouts, the corker, the conveyor belt, and of course, the bottles. There's a lot of back and forth and eyes darting. My favorite part is when I breeze by the part of the line where the bottles have just been filled and are about to be corked, because at that point you can get a whiff of the wine and it smells so good! But I always hope I don't have to take a bottle off around this stage because after putting on so many empty bottles a full one feels like it weighs 10 pounds.

On a full day of bottling we can fill over 10,000 bottles. You can't get this kind of workout anywhere else. I'm ready for a nap now.

Getting Tanked

2010-08-16T19:42:00.004-07:00

One of my favorite things to do at Wiemer is to get inside the tanks to clean them. We've been doing that a lot lately, since we're preparing to bottle the wine. The technique for getting into a tank varies from person to person (mostly because of our varying heights), but I tend to dive in head first and come out feet first. Here are some pics of me getting ready to clean a tank.

Made in Vermont

2010-08-09T04:31:00.022-07:00

Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard is going to be featured in the Hubbardton Forge spring catalog! Hubbardton Forge is a light fixture company in Vermont. Their stuff is really classy and unique. They chose our winery as a set for featuring their new line of fixtures, so last week they installed new lights in our winery. This week they'll take photographs for the layout, which will appear in their March 2011 catalog.

It was really cool to see the guys installing the lights in our huge, scissor-trussed barn:

And the result is tons more light and a world-class design:

Wines from Alsace

2010-08-01T05:20:00.003-07:00

Over the past few weeks I've tried some interesting wines from Alsace. They have a similar wine-growing climate to us and are known for Riesling and Gewurztraminer, so it is interesting to compare the wines.

This is a super high-end Riesling that retails for around $240:

It had a petrol nose that opened up to floral and stone fruit. Crisp acidity mingled with a smoothness on the palate as it sat in the glass. Alsatian Riesling is generally more dry than in Germany, and this too was a very dry style. This 2002 is their current release, so it has already been aged and now could be aged another 30 years.

We also tried a couple of Gewurztraminers next to Wiemer's 2002...

The 2007 Emile Beyer was surprisingly similar in taste to our '02 - with a mellowed creaminess balanced by the still-refreshing acidity. The 2000 Domaine Zind Humbrecht was viscous and sweet, the sweetest Gewurz I've ever tasted. That winery is the gold standard in Gewurz, so it was cool to try it, but I preferred the crispness of the Emile Beyer and ours.

Barrel Fever

2010-07-29T04:57:00.002-07:00

This week we moved the 2009 reds out of barrels so we could get them off their fermentation lees and start blending the Field Cuvee and the different parcels of Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc.

Moving wine from barrels is much more logistically complicated than moving wine from a tank. The barrels are each 60 gallons. We pumped them into holding tanks one by one; Cab Franc in one tank, Pinot in one, the elements of Field Cuvee blended together in another. We let the wine stay in the tanks overnight to settle out. Meanwhile, we cleaned the barrels and arranged them for re-filling.

Barrels are heavy even when empty so there is some strategy involved in moving them around. Cleaning barrels is the fun part but it can get really tiring after a while. It is important to clean them well since the wood is porous and exposed to the elements. To clean them we fill them with some water and then roll them back and forth in a swift motion, creating a wave action inside that agitates any solids and splashes the whole area. We do 3 rinses: cold - hot/steam - cold. After they're rinsed we dry them out overnight and fill them the next day.

I cleaned 34 barrels in 2 days, 17 per day! The third day we set and filled the rest. And on the fourth day I rested.

Sugar Rush

2010-07-25T14:55:00.001-07:00

We've been preparing to bottle our 2009 wine designated for sparkling. We're making a Blanc de Blanc (from Chardonnay) and a Cuvee Brut Rose (from Pinot Noir). We've filtered the base wine and last week we added the sugar, moving the wine from one tank to another and mixing the sugar continuously so it dissolved. This was fun :) Next we have to add yeast to the base wine to kickstart the second fermentation, which will convert the added sugar to alcohol and carbon dioxide. The carbon dioxide will be trapped in the bottle, and this is what makes the wine bubble. We'll also add riddling agents to help the yeast coagulate once they have finished their task.

Sugar: check
Yeast: on deck
Riddling agents: on deck

Child of the 80's

2010-07-25T05:31:00.002-07:00

Yesterday a customer called and said he had a bottle of Hermann J. Wiemer's 1987 Bunch Select Late Harvest Riesling (this is our TBA style dessert wine where we hand select every single botrytised berry) and he wanted to come to the tasting room and share it with us. We were so excited! Steve arrived with two bottles and we opened one. The cork was in great shape and the wine was a gorgeous golden color. It smelled like apricot with a touch of gasoline - very pleasant for those who love the smell of pumping gas, like me. It was a touch oxidized on the palate and tasted very Sherry-like, with a creamy nuttiness and a bit of stone fruit pitiness. Very interesting. It wasn't as sweet as I expected it to be, despite the 9.8% residual sugar. Perhaps that had something to do with the oxidation. The label was one we hadn't seen before from the Wiemer collection. I personally had never seen such an old bottle of Hermann's! This was a great way to end the week. Thank you again, Steve!

When you're quite finished!

2010-07-20T18:32:00.000-07:00

Last week we finally called it quits on our last 2 fermenting tanks. 2 tanks of Riesling were still going, after 9 months of fermentation! We like to let the wines ferment as they will, so usually in the winter they'll slow down or stop, but instead of adding yeast to get them going again we'll just wait - and then without fail they'll kick up again in the spring. Maybe it's the spring moon or just the rising temperatures, but either way things kick up. So after putting together our various Rieslings from all the different tanks we decided these last 2 were ready to stop. Now they've joined their friends in going through cold stabilization. Which I have to say is like natural air conditioning for the winery in these hot temperatures.

Blend, baby, Blend

2010-07-15T17:07:00.037-07:00

This week we released a new wine: Field Cuvee 2007. This is a red blend that until now used to be called Estate Red. Field Cuvee 2007 is dominated by Cabernet Franc and Merlot, followed by Lemberger, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Pinot Noir. Hermann originally planted some of these varieties for the nursery business to provide bud material for grafting. We vinify Cab Franc and Pinot Noir as single varietals. Depending on the vintage we'll also do a Merlot. But we'll always have a blend with these 5 grapes, and from now on it will be known as Field Cuvee. It's a medium-bodied red with a lot of bright fruit that is easy to drink and will go well with many foods from BBQ to pizza.

The Cuvee line of wines is our blended line, with a different label to distinguish it from the rest of our wines - which are single varietals that are named on the label. It was first unveiled last summer with Frost Cuvee 2008, a white blend of Riesling, Gewurztraminer, and Chardonnay.

Blends are nice because they can bring out the best of each variety. If you can't decide on one grape, blend, baby, blend!

Unrelated: Apparently John Travolta has bought a house on Keuka Lake, which is west of Seneca. I've called dibs on his tasting if he comes to the winery!

Gewurztrameeter

2010-06-29T13:21:00.001-07:00

Over the weekend we hosted a great event at Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard featuring tank/barrel samples and a live jazz band. We focused on Riesling, Gewurztraminer, and Cabernet Franc - the 3 top varietals of the Finger Lakes. We offered 3 vintages of each, including the current 2009 release still in tanks/barrels. I hosted the Gewurz table, where I poured the 2006 and 2008 vintages plus a tank sample of the 2009 vintage, just filtered on Friday. I first had the 2006 Gewurztraminer in February when I brought a bottle down to Argentina and loved it. The 2008 Gewurz is one of my current favorites. And the 2009 Gewurz is going to be great - it's got a lot of concentration. These wines paired great with Chef Michael Murphy's spicy shrimp and his tarragon and mustard seed chicken salad.

Here's what one fan and fellow blogger had to say about the event:
http://www.livelifeeatright.com/2010/06/27/let-there-be-riesling/

Pictures to come!

Who's your Pinot?

2010-06-28T17:58:00.000-07:00

The other night after a long day of work we did a Hermann J. Wiemer Pinot Noir flight that was really interesting - 2004, 2006, 2007, 2008, and barrel sample 2009. The 2009 barrels are tasting very complex and interesting; they won't be blended and bottled for some time still. The 2008 has been bottled but it isn't released yet; the flavor is really intense and it's going to be a good one. (2008 was just a great vintage all around for us). 2007 is the current release that is out now, and it overflows with bright cherry and spice - actually very similar to the 2008. 2006 was a cold, wet year so this Pinot is very light with some muted cherry and a bit of earthiness. 2004 was fantastic - very smooth with velvety tannin and a lot of beet and blackberry - very different from the others.

We had an event at the winery over the weekend and Fred brought out some of the 2004 Pinot Noir - it was a huge hit. There are still a few more bottles left at $30 each...

So hot right now

2010-06-28T17:16:00.000-07:00

Can the FLX get any better? The west side of Seneca Lake, with its many wineries dotting Route 14, now has its very own WIENERY, and it is just 5 minutes from HJW! I could not be more excited.

I have been driving by this property for a week waiting for the "Coming Soon" sign to read "Now Open" and today was the day. They serve 6 different types of hot dogs, including 2 varieties of Hofmann's from Syracuse. I got a Hofmann's White with a side of honey baked beans (which I then put on the dog) and it was delicious - salty, sweet, and a little spicy. They also have root beer on tap and Hershey's ice cream. This is going to be bad, having this wienery so close to the winery, and on my way home from work too...

Filter this

2010-06-27T17:02:00.000-07:00

Last week at HJW we started filtering! This was very exciting. Filtering is one of the last steps before bottling. Essentially, in the simplest terms, the winemaking process goes like this: pick the grapes, press the juice, rack (transfer) the juice off the solids, ferment the grape juice (thereby converting the sugar to alcohol by action of yeast), rack off the fermentation lees and tartrates, cold stabilize (lower the temperature of the tank to about 35 degrees F) to further precipitate out any tartrates, filter, blend and bottle. So filtering is a big step. We use a very fine (0.2 micron) cross-flow filter:

We started on Wednesday and in 3 days we filtered the components of Frost Cuvee (our white blend), a couple of tanks of Riesling, and Gewurztraminer. We still have a lot of tanks to go, but it's very exciting because once the wine is filtered we will make final blending decisions and then bottle it.

Hey Mr. Postman, look and see...

2010-06-20T16:24:00.013-07:00

Finally we finished putting the posts in the second new vineyard plot at HJW! This plot, like the first one, is all Riesling. Just north of the winery you can see this new vineyard along Route 14.

But there was more... a small section in the Magdalena vineyard. This was a quickie - only took a day and a half. Here we have Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Franc. All our reds are planted on the Magdalena site since it is the warmest. We have Chardonnay at HJW and Magdalena.

The plants look great and are all tied and contained. In 3 years we'll be able to make wine from these sections. Wine from young vines can be very interesting and great - in fact, I recently learned that our Reserve Cabernet Franc 2007 came from a section of the Magdalena vineyard site that was planted in 2004, and you can taste the difference from our regular Cab Franc that was planted in the late 90's. The Reserve Cab Franc is very complex and rewarding, with smooth tannin and flavors that will definitely age well in the bottle.

Speaking of vineyard plots, we're continuing to move wines from the 2009 vintage that have finished their fermentations and making blending decisions. Since we vinify vineyard plots separately, around this time of year its time to decide how to blend the final wine. We base this on the varying flavors, sweetness, and acidity of the different tanks. Fred, our winemaker, is a master blender. In France he would be called a Chef du Caves. It is fun to taste the different components of a blend and then the way they come together.

Last week we worked on the Semi-Dry Riesling. This is one of our top sellers - we'll make about 3000 cases of it. We're also getting the Chardonnay cuvee ready to become sparkling blanc de blanc - which literally means white of white but refers to sparkling wine made from white grapes. So, we moved the Chard cuvee from barrels to tank for cold stabilization, which helps with tartrate precipitation. Then we'll filter it and bottle it for the second fermentation, which will make the still wine sparkle.

Btw, I've been getting into stainless steel tanks to clean them and it is pretty fun. When I was a kid growing up with 3 siblings I fashioned a solitary space underneath an end table in our living room and hung out there with my books and toys. I find a similar comfort inside a stainless steel tank. Except instead of books and toys there are tartrate crystals, fermentation lees, and a lot of water :)

Nursery Rhymes

2010-05-24T07:09:00.046-07:00

Just as temperatures spiked to 80 degrees in the FLX it was time to get the grafted plants into the Hermann J. Wiemer Nursery, aka the ground. After grafting and waxing into spring, we packed the plants in boxes with peat moss and sand and kept them in a warmed room for two weeks so they could develop a callous around the graft, thus protecting it. While they were warming up in this phase we would brush the sand on top to fill in any holes to keep the plants packed in tightly. I called this the Zen Garden because brushing the sand was very soothing. During the second week they started sprouting some greenery, and then it was time to get them into the real world.

We carefully unpacked the plants, checked the callouses to make sure they were sound, re-dipped the tops in wax, and re-packed them in large bins for transport up to the nursery about 15 miles north of the winery. With a crew of 10-12 people, we got 100,000 plants in the ground by hand in 3 days: 2 people unpacked the plants into hand-held picking boxes; 1 person drove the tractor, which pulled a 6-seater trailer; 2-4 additional people followed behind filling in the spaces that were missed.

It was sunny and hot and essentially backbreaking, but what an accomplishment! The babies are doing well and they'll stay in the ground until November, when we'll harvest them and get them ready for shipping across the country to vineyards in need. (I did the harvesting part last November, so now I've gone backwards to the beginning).

Meanwhile, we still have some 1 year plants that are ready for planting if you'd like to have your own backyard vineyard. On our patio outside the tasting room you'll see potted plants of varieties including Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Chardonnay, Gruner Veltliner, Viognier, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Wine Bloggers Unite!

2010-05-14T18:24:00.005-07:00

TasteCamp EAST 2010 was held last weekend in the Finger Lakes. TasteCamp is a regional wine event aimed at getting enthusiastic journalists and bloggers together in a region that is new to them to taste as much wine as possible and speak to as many winemakers as possible over the course of a weekend. It had its inaugural weekend last year in Long Island, and this year they hit the Finger Lakes.

We hosted a group of 36 at Hermann J. Wiemer on Saturday, and Fred Merwarth, our winemaker, focused our tasting on the evolution of our vineyard sites and how we make blending and bottling decisions. We started off with our 2008 Frost Cuvee, a blended wine of Riesling and Gewurztraminer accented by our cuvee of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir - a second pressing from grapes originally designated for sparkling wine, where we only use the first press juice (sparkling wines are very delicate so you only use the first pressings, whereas with other still wines there may be 2 or 3 pressings total). Then we poured the '08 Dry Riesling and the '08 Gewurztraminer to illustrate examples of wines that are blended from different pickings. Next was the Reserve flight - the '08 Dry Riesling Reserve, a blend of the best tanks in the winery, and the '03 Dry Riesling Reserve, which was 100% fruit from the HJW site, Hermann's original planting and a very slatey site. After that we poured the 2008 single vineyard bottlings: Dry Riesling HJW Vineyard and Dry Riesling Magdalena Vineyard. We finished with tank samples of these single vineyards from the 2009 vintage, still fermenting.

It was a great event, but obviously I'm biased. Here's what some of the bloggers had to say:

New York Cork Report: http://www.lenndevours.com/2010/05/when-a-winemaker-asks-if-you--need-to-be-anywhere-the-answer-should-probably-be-no-when-that-winemaker-is--fred-m.html

The Wine Case: http://winecase.ca/2010/05/09/tastecamp-day-2-quick-notes-from-seneca-lake/

Wine Lover's Journal: http://www.examiner.com/x-17620-Manhattan-Wine-Examiner~y2010m5d11-Hermann-J-Wiemer-German-precision-gives-rise-to-fine-wine-in-the-Finger-Lakes

Going Postal

2010-05-09T12:27:00.003-07:00

For the last couple of weeks we have been putting posts in the 2 new vineyard plots of Riesling that were planted last Spring on the HJW site at Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard. This task requires a good eye and a bit of upper body strength, since this site is very slatey and we have encountered many rocky interruptions. Sometimes there's a bit of rock just where you want to put the post, and the post either has to be jammed hard enough to break it or the rock has to be dug out. (Last week one of the guys dug out a rock about the size of a small child. Maressa took it home to put in her garden.) The posts have to be in line with the plants, the end posts, and each other. Usually 4 of us are working together to make this happen. It's been pretty windy lately, so we've had to do some correcting along the way since the posts are not completely set until they are pounded into the ground via tractor machinery. While it is difficult to get them all exactly perfect, we are still obsessively trying (I've even been dreaming about posts lined up nice and straight), and I'm pleased to say we have completed 1 of the 2 sites and it looks pretty darn good. Next step there is to finish stringing the wires and getting the plants tied so they don't grow all over the place as they would like to do.

This week we hope to finish the posts in the second site. After the past weekend's gusty winds I am afraid to see what has become of our work so far, but I am trying to be optimistic :)

Pink Pinot

2010-05-09T06:30:00.001-07:00

We had a nice summer-like spell here in the FLX about a week ago and it reminded me that people like to drink pink when it gets warmer. I enjoyed a bottle of Wiemer's Pinot Noir Rose from 2006. This is a Pinot lover's pink wine - a rosey nose with bright strawberry fruit and nice body. I had it with pizza and again with broiled salmon and it paired well both times. At $11.50/btl it's a serious steal.

Updates on my favorite Argentine wines

2010-05-06T04:00:00.011-07:00

The Los Vencejos Aleteo 2006 is now available! This Reserve Tempranillo from Argentina spent 2 years in barrel and 2 years in bottle before release. I blogged/raved about it in February when I tried it. It's $22/btl and available at www.losvencejos.com.

Also, the delicious Los Vencejos Malbec 2007 is on sale for $18/btl. Remember this one got 90 points from Wine Spectator. A steal now and definitely one for the table and the cellar. Salud!

That girl is poison

2010-04-26T17:46:00.003-07:00

Well last week we had bud break, a bit earlier than expected and a bit unnerving since the threat of frost in the FLX still looms. But still, it is exciting since it means that soon we will have new growth. We're preparing the vineyards for flowering, and lucky me, I took home a little poison ivy as a souvenir. Since at Wiemer we don't use herbicides it can get a little wild out there, but I didn't think anything was really sprouting yet since nothing is green. Silly me - the poison ivy is red; I should have noticed it. Oh well - now I know. It's not so bad, just on my forearms since the rest of me was pretty covered and I was wearing gloves. I saw a snake too, but I'm way over that already.

Back in the FLX

2010-04-17T13:51:00.003-07:00

I'm back at Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard in the Finger Lakes, with a promotion from harvest intern to full-time assistant and the dirty, raw hands to go with it! This past week we were grafting - European Vinifera buds on American rootstock - which involved a fun machine that makes an Omega cut to hold the pieces together and an even more fun vat of hot red wax that we dip the new plants in to keep them together. Also this week we started moving the first of what will be many tanks that have finished fermentation so the wine can clear. It was fascinating to see the tartrate crystals that had formed (although not as much fun to clean them since I didn't realize how harsh they are and my hands are now thoroughly cut up) and to see how fast the wine cleared once it was moved off the fermentation gunk (by the next day). I'm learning how to sulfur the wine to stabilize it and how to measure residual sugar and alcohol. It was very exciting to taste what has been made from the grapes we picked and crushed last fall.

Spring in the FLX is pretty nice so far - as long as it doesn't snow tomorrow like they are saying - and I get to see this waterfall every day:

Pink Wine

2010-04-09T14:22:00.002-07:00

This post is dedicated to my mom, lover of White Zinfandel, in celebration of her birthday this month.

Note: I am no longer referring to pink wines as "rose" wines, since this is a French word and not all wines are French. So these types of wines will from now on be labeled "pink."

During my travels in Argentina and Chile I learned about how some pink wines are made. To further concentrate red wines, some of the free run juice is bled off the skins after a short amount of contact, resulting in a pink by-product wine that is usually vinified dry. The remaining red wine has a higher ratio of skins to juice, resulting in more concentrated flavor, color and structural components.

This method is not new. In fact, when Bob Trinchero of Sutter Home Winery in California released the first White Zinfandel in 1973, he had made it for the same reason. It was a by-product of his red Zin that he wanted to get more concentrated. He fermented the pink stuff dry and sold it as White Zinfandel. A few years later, while making this wine, the fermentation got stuck and not all of the sugar was converted to alcohol. Bob tried it, liked it, and decided to bottle it that way. The sweet White Zin was a hit with Americans who thought they didn't like wine. And now you know the rest of the story.

Like it or not, and even though my mom prefers Beringer to Sutter Home, we still owe thanks to Sutter Home for starting the White Zin craze and getting more Americans to drink wine. I am happy to report that my mom's evolving palate now enjoys many Rieslings and sometimes a Gewurztraminer :) Happy Birthday, Mom!

Sauv Blancs for Spring - this weekend at Puro Wine

2010-03-25T13:37:00.002-07:00

This weekend at Puro Wine, Manhattan's hotspot for Chilean wine, try some Sauvignon Blancs for Spring!

Friday, March 26, 5:00-7:00pm

Quintay Wines

Quintay is an affiliation of landowners in Chile's Casablanca Valley, and winemaker Vicente Johnson selects the best plots of each vintage year to make Quintay wines. The Sauvignon Blancs are fresh, dry and crisp - ideal for the beginning of Spring! The Pinot offers more fruit and body than you might expect, with concentrated red fruit, dried herb notes and a velvety texture.

2008 Quintay Clava Sauvignon Blanc, $11/btl. or $118.80/case

2008 Quintay Sauvignon Blanc, $16/btl. or $172.80/case

2007 Quintay Pinot Noir, $21/btl. or $226.80/case

Saturday, March 27, 4:00-6:00pm

Viña Tabali Wines

Puro Wine is proud to introduce Viña Tabali to the New York City market! Tabali is located in the Limari Valley, where bright sunlight, cool breezes from the Pacific and chalky soils produce remarkable wines. Winemaker Felipe Müller was named Best Winemaker of the Year by the Guia de Vinos de Chile 2010, and the wines have won high regards from critics around the world. Check them out for yourself!

2008 Tabali Reserva Sauvignon Blanc, $14/btl. or $151.20/case
2008 Tabali Reserva Especial Chardonnay, $19/btl. or $205.20/case
2007 Tabali Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon, $17/btl. or $183.60/case

Puro Wine

161 Grand Street (at Centre St)

New York NY 10013
212 925 0090

This weekend at Puro Wine: Viña Morande & Haras de Pirque

2010-03-19T11:12:00.003-07:00

This weekend, Puro Wine (located at the corner of Grand Street and Centre Street in lower Manhattan) is featuring these 2 Chilean producers for free tastings.

Friday, March 19, 5:00-7:00pm

Viña Morande Wines

Viña Morande's Pionero and Reserva wines celebrate the social, welcoming and easygoing qualities of modern Chilean wine. Morande is based in the Casablanca Valley, a cool region that produces fresh, fruit-forward whites and Pinot Noirs. Priced at $9 and $12 each, they're the perfect wines to pour for parties too.

2008 Morande Reserva Sauvignon Blanc, $12/btl. or $129.60/case
2009 Morande Pionero Pinot Noir, $9/btl. or $97.20/case
2008 Morande Pionero Cabernet Sauvignon, $9/btl. or $97.20/case
2008 Morande Reserva Pinot Noir, $12/btl. or $129.60/case

Saturday, March 20, 4:00-6:00pm

Haras de Pirque Wines

Haras de Pirque is tucked in the foothills of the Andes Mountains in the upper Maipo Valley, where they produce excellent Cabernet Sauvignon as well as thoroughbred horses. (Note the winery was designed in the shape of a horseshoe.) This tasting focuses on two levels of Cabernet - the Equus and the Elegance - that both offer value and finesse well above the price tag.

2007 Haras de Pirque Estate (Equus) Cabernet Sauvignon, $14/btl. or $151.20/case

2005 Haras de Pirque Elegance Cabernet Sauvignon, $45/btl.

ALSO: In support of rebuilding Chile after the recent earthquake, several big importers and distributors are donating their profits to Chile. This month when you purchase the 2007 Errazuriz Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon or any wine from Montes, all profits go to relief efforts.

Chile's Long Hill - Loma Larga

2010-03-14T18:38:00.003-07:00

Last week at Puro Wine in lower Manhattan I picked up this bottle of wine for the weekend. I hadn't visited Loma Larga while I was in Chile, but the manager highly recommended it when I said I was looking for a mid-priced Pinot so I took her suggestion. It was really enjoyable, with a powerful nose and flavors of rose petal, red fruit, chocolate, and a bit of funk. It's a silky, fuller bodied Pinot with 14.5% alcohol, and I sipped it without food (unless chips and dip count?) and quite liked it.

The Loma Larga 2007 Pinot Noir received 90 points from Robert Parker, Wine Advocate, and it retails for $21 at Puro Wine (161 Grand Street).

Rave Riesling Reviews for HJW

2010-03-10T13:10:00.003-08:00

Congrats to my friends at Hermann J. Wiemer, who got rave reviews from Wine Spectator for 4 of their 2008 Rieslings!

Here are the reviews and ratings from James Molesworth:

HERMANN J. WIEMER
Riesling Finger Lakes Dry HJW Vineyard 2008
92 points | $39 | 80 cases made | White
Still reserved for now, with white peach, blanched almond, bitter lemon and Key lime flavors all laced up tightly by a note of jasmine tea. Dense and ripe, but tightly wound on the finish. Will need to stretch out in the cellar. Best from 2011 through 2014.—J.M.

HERMANN J. WIEMER
Riesling Finger Lakes Late Harvest Bunch Select 2008
92 points | $100/375ml | 75 cases made | dessert
Inviting with a gorgeous beam of persimmon, apricot and blood orange fruit flavors allied to a creamy, lush frame. Fig, green tea and creamed pear notes then fill out the lengthy finish with great underlying snap. Drink now through 2019.—J.M.

HERMANN J. WIEMER
Riesling Finger Lakes Dry Reserve 2008
91 points | $23 | 400 cases made | White
Though still compact now, this is really juicy and ripe with a great core of yellow apple, melon rind, jasmine and white peach notes backed by a bracing edge. The long, quinine-tinged finish needs a little time to settle in. Drink now through 2013.—J.M.

HERMANN J. WIEMER
Riesling Finger Lakes Late Harvest Select 2008
90 points | $62/375ml | 50 cases made | dessert
Very fresh with an invigorating feel to the dried apricot, ripe peach and creamed melon notes, with a flitter of green tea weaving in on the sweet, succulent finish. Lush, but with good snap for balance. Drink now through 2012.—J.M.

J. Bouchon Wine Tasting this Friday in NYC

2010-03-09T21:26:00.001-08:00

Today I was at Puro Wine in downtown Manhattan. Seeing their selection of Chilean wine made me nostalgic for my trip, and I had to restrain myself from not buying the whole store. I picked up a few bottles and learned that this Friday from 5-7pm they will be pouring two J. Bouchon wines - Sauvignon Blanc and Carmenere. I tried these wines when I visited the winery in the Maule Valley and I highly recommend them. Stop by if you can!

J. Bouchon Wine Tasting
Friday, March 12
5-7pm

Puro Wine
161 Grand Street
New York NY 10013
212 925 0090
puro-wine.com

Help Chile - drink their wine

2010-03-05T08:34:00.004-08:00

Some of the areas that I visited during my wine trip to Chile were severely affected by the earthquake on February 28. Wineries in the Maule Valley and Colchagua Valley sustained damage to their equipment and cellars, and a significant amount of wine has been lost - hundreds of thousands of liters. Many people lost their homes and some places are still without water and electricity.

These pictures are from J. Bouchon Winery, who lost a fair amount of wine and suffered some structural damage. But everyone there is ok and they are gearing up for their 2010 harvest.

If you want to help Chile, why not check out Puro Chile and Puro Wine in Manhattan at Centre St. and Grand St. - they sell lots of Chilean wines, crafts, olive and avocado oils (there are a lot of avocados in Chile and the oil is really good).

Puro Chile
221 Centre Street
New York, NY 10013
212 217 9362
puro-chile.com

Puro Wine
161 Grand Street
New York NY 10013
212 925 0090
puro-wine.com

Buena Suerte, Chile!

Argentina, Chile, Uruguay: My Wine Awards

2010-02-23T20:21:00.005-08:00

I drank a lot of wine in South America! So I thought I'd wrap up the trip with a recap of my favorites. It can be tough for me to choose favorites since I believe wine-drinking is very circumstantial, but I tried my hardest to find my top picks. I've paid homage to the signature grapes of each country plus my other favorites in the major color categories. And I've rated my best food pairings and wine experiences in each country.

ARGENTINA
Fave Malbec: Colome Malbec Estate 2007
Fave Torrontes: Miraflor 2009
Fave other Red: Los Vencejos Aleteo 2006 (Tempranillo)
Fave Rose: Melipal Malbec Rose 2009
Fave Dessert wine: San Pedro de Yacochuya Late Harvest Torrontes 2007
Fave wine/food pairing: O. Fournier Urban Uco Sauvignon Blanc 2009 with steak tartar
Fave overall wine experience: Barrel sampling at Los Vencejos

CHILE
Fave Carmenere: J. Bouchon Carmenere Reserva Especial 2007
Fave other Red: Casa Marin Pinot Noir Lo Abarca Vineyard 2006
Fave Rose: J. Bouchon Cabernet Sauvignon Rose 2009
Fave White: Casa Marin Gewurztraminer 2009
Fave Dessert wine: Errazuriz Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc 2007
Fave wine/food pairing: Errazuriz Merlot 2007 with pastel de choclo
Fave overall wine experience: J. Bouchon Winery and Mingre Lodge excursion

URUGUAY
Fave Tannat: Bouza Tannat A6 2007
Fave other Red: Alto de la Ballena Merlot-CabFranc-Tannat 2006
Fave Rose: Alto de la Ballena CabFranc-Tannat Rose 2008
Fave White: Stagnari Chardonnay 2009
Fave wine/food pairing: Bouza Chardonnay 2008 with creamy spinach ravioli

Fave overall wine experience: Wine tasting and barrel sampling at Alto de la Ballena

Thanks for following my journey! If anyone ever tries any of the wines I tried please feel free to leave a comment with your impressions.

From deserts to glaciers to dinosaurs

2010-02-18T09:04:00.001-08:00

I finished my South American journey by cooling off in Patagonia with the glaciers. In the town of El Calafate in the Santa Cruz province of Argentina, I was awed by glaciers and snowy mountains and enjoyed Patagonian lamb in all its forms. I was pleased to see that Patagonia is also a wine-producing region; I had high hopes for this Pinot Noir, figuring it must be more like the cool-climate Pinots I enjoy. Saurus is so named because when the Familia Schroeder winery was being built they found fossil remains of a Titanosaur, one of the largest species of dinosaurs ever known. Pretty cool! I had the 2007 Pinot with fondue and it was an ok match, but it might have actually paired better with meat since it was a fuller-bodied Pinot with high alcohol - 14.4% - and flavors of white pepper, red berry fruit, and vanilla. I was surprised by the alcohol but then learned that the Neuquen region of Patagonia where the wine is made is just south of the Mendoza province, where Patagonia just begins, so it is still pretty warm and dry there. Plus at this point I know how strong the sun is in these parts so ripening of Pinot would be quick and alcohol levels would tend to be higher. An interesting exercise and a reminder that I probably want to stick with meat for these Argentine reds!

Oh, Fournier

2010-02-11T14:31:00.005-08:00

Back in the province of Mendoza we visited the impressive property of Spanish implant O. Fournier, just down the road from Los Vencejos in La Consulta, Uco Valley. The ultra modern facility has 3 levels and is gravity-driven. The grapes are received on the 2nd level and sorted into large tanks that live on the 1st level. The 3rd level has the lab and tasting room, which is equipped with a dentist-style sink around the table for cleaner tastings. The huge cellar doubles as an art gallery, which seems to be a trend down here. There is also, of course, a restaurant. We had our best wine lunch yet at O. Fournier.

First course was some amazing steak tartar, the best I've ever had. The steak was chopped really small with scallions mixed in. This went really well with the Urban Uco Sauvignon Blanc 2009, which had smooth flavors of pineapple and lemon. Next was a delicious corn soup that complemented the Urban Uco Torrontes 2009, which had classic aromas/flavors of orange blossom and musk.

For our main courses Peter got veal ragout with potatoes and truffle oil and I had ginger lemon risotto. The veal was great with O. Fournier's Alpha Crux 2002, a blend of 60%Tempranillo, 35%Malbec and 5%Merlot, which was a heavy, oaky wine with dark fruit, vanilla, and meaty flavors. It got 93 points from Wine Spectator and sells for US$110 a bottle. It was a good wine, no doubt, but heavy.

The risotto was resilient, matching well with the Urban Uco line of wines: the aforementioned Sauvignon Blanc and Torrontes, as well as the Tempranillo 2007, which had really nice red berry fruit. It also went well with the B Crux 2003, a blend of 60%Tempranillo, 20%Malbec, 10%Merlot and 10%Syrah, which was unfiltered and had luscious flavors of red fruit, spice, and dark chocolate. It got 91 points from Wine Spectator and sells for US$55 a bottle. The B Crux was my favorite wine of the tasting.

For dessert, there were 2. First was a melon sorbet that made me wonder why I don't like honeydew more. It was so ripe and refreshing. Second was a somewhat bizarre coffee/chocolate ravioli with ice cream and orange jam. It went great with the Torrontes and the Alpha Crux, but the best part was the translation. In Spanish they called it "Pasta de cafe rellena de chocolate con helado de reduccion de leche y coulis de naranja," which in English was described as "Raviolis of coffee released of chocolate cream and milk reduction ice cream and orange coulis." We are still laughing about this! Released of chocolate...

A delicious, memorable lunch. We enjoyed all the wines and dishes. Felicitaciones, O. Fournier!

Goats and blackouts and floods, oh my

2010-02-10T19:16:00.011-08:00

On the drive back to Mendoza from Salta, through red mountains and cactus-lined streams, we stopped overnight in Villa Union, a tiny town in the San Jose valley that produces some wine and sometimes loses electricity.

As soon as we got into town we noticed this sign in front of a restaurant, and I said, free goat? But it means all-you-can-eat goat. So we knew what we were having for dinner. AC on in the hotel and all electricity apparently working, we went to dinner and ordered the chivito libre with a salad and a bottle of locally made wine called Syros Syrah 2009. The wine was very fruity, young and simple, with plum, raspberry, and light oak. The goat was simple as well but tasted very fresh and just about perfect with a little lemon juice (from that classic green bottle) and salt. The waiter also brought us a glass of the Syros Torrontes 2009, which was surprisingly sweet and lacking acidity, but we imagined it was intended to be like this, juicy with some residual sugar and no acidification, unlike most wines in the area (it's often too hot to hold onto the natural acidity during the grapes' ripening).

After 4 plates of goat the lights went out and the fans went off. You can't imagine such darkness or such heat. The waiter came over and offered us a candle. We weren't quite done eating, but after a Junebug kept diving for my plate I was ready to quit. We had the waiter clear the plates, but then I remembered our goal was 6 plates and we were still hungry after 4, so we decided to continue the effort. We ordered another round and got through it, but the heat got the best of us and we called it a night after the 5th plate. We got flan to go and ate it back at the hotel with a 2007 late harvest Torrontes that we'd picked up in Cafayate at San Pedro de Yacochuya. It was surprisingly Sherry-like, with pronounced alcohol, a nutty creaminess, and sweet vanilla and orange blossom. Not what we expected, but we liked it!

San Pedro de Yacochuya's Coquena line of wines is named for the supernatural protector of the vicuñas, animals of the camel family that are native to the Andes and are prized for their fine but rare wool. Coquena is a little man dressed in white who travels at night driving large herds of vicuña. He punishes those who wantonly kill these animals.

Thankfully the electricity was still working at the hotel and the AC was still going. We didn't lose it until the next morning around 8am during a thunderstorm that flooded the town and sent us packing - but not until after visiting 3 gas stations before finding one with enough power to pump gas.

Viva Villa Union!

The future of the Andes

2010-02-09T18:15:00.068-08:00

Our last day in Cafayate, we visited a winery right in town called Porvenir de los Andes - the Future of the Andes. We toured and tasted with the winemaker, and while we are concerned that the intense heat and lack of water in the Salta area of Argentina makes the future of winemaking there slightly questionable, he does not anticipate a problem anytime soon. (He really believes in the winery's name!) Unfortunately I didn't take notes during this tasting, and I neglected to write my impressions down afterwards, so I can't be too specific but I do recall that I liked all the wines. The Torrontes was classic and the reds were intense, flavorful, and smooth. I do remember that their spittoons were unlike any I'd seen before - instead of being empty they were filled with oak shavings, so you didn't make a mess when using them, and the scent of the oak was a nice palate refresher in between wines. Also, we confirmed an interesting practice in the making of rose, and I think it probably holds true for other parts of Argentina and Chile as well: many wineries "bleed" off a percentage of their fermenting red grape juice to allow the remaining juice to have maximum contact with the skins during fermentation, resulting in a more intense extraction of color, flavor, and structural components; we suspect that many roses originate from this bleed, or sangria.

Road less traveled to Colome

2010-02-07T15:54:00.003-08:00

In the Salta province of Argentina, we set out to visit Bodega Colome, launching from Cafayate, the charming town where we were staying. We were about halfway there, enjoying the scenic route up through the mountains alongside the cacti, when we were faced with a choice of 2 directions to take. We opted for the "shorter" way because we were running late, but it was perhaps not the best choice. It was clearly the road less traveled, and for good reason - very narrow, rocky, sandy roads with no pavement in sight. At one point we almost got stuck in a sand ditch and had to build a rock path to drive over. We gathered rocks and Peter arranged them just so, building up the sand with 2 lanes of rocks so he could drive over the ditch. Once we built our bridge I directed him to ensure he stayed on the rock path, and after just 2 tries Peter got us out! We were so relieved. The next obstacle was a bit of mud and marsh, and again, 2 possible directions, but Peter assessed the situation and determined the best path, concluding that the mud was solid enough that we wouldn't get stuck. From here we could almost see Colome up in the hills. Then finally we made it there, 2200 meters above sea level, a mere 1 hour late for our appointment.

Thankfully, it was worth it! I really liked the wines here. The whites were flavorful and crisp. The reds were super concentrated but had really good flavors and complexity. All the wines here had a chalky minerality that we hadn't noticed in wines from Mendoza. This could be attributed to the rocky mountain soil. Colome has 2 additional vineyard sites besides the 2200m one we visited with the winery, and one of them is 3015 meters above sea level - the highest vineyard in the world, they say. The altitude helps cool things down in this very hot region of Argentina.

The wines:

*Mystery white: a mystery because the vines are so old and have morphed a few times from cloning, so they don't know exactly what they are. To me it tasted like Sauvignon Blanc, with gooseberry, asparagus, and jalapeno pepper.

*Torrontes 2009: at first vanilla and banana candy, then classic orange blossom as it warmed up in the glass. Different from the Torrontes we'd had so far, but interesting, and smooth with good acid.

*Amalaya 2007: a blend of mostly Malbec with some Cab Sauv and a little bit of something I can't remember. Cranberry and spice, good body and smooth tannin, my favorite of the tasting.
*Malbec Estate 2007: 85%Malbec, 8%Tannat, 5%Cab Sauv, 2%Syrah. Pure blackberry fruit, bright with firm tannin.
*Syrah 2007: a wine only available at the winery and served in their hotel's restaurant, it was pretty special with cassis, blackberry jam and a hint of cured meat. Firm tannin and almost 16% alcohol! A wine that should come with a 1-glass max. warning.

Colome is biodynamic and produces 900,000 liters of wine per year from 150 hectares of planted vines. All their supplies and equipment come from Mendoza, so everything makes that rocky, uphill climb through the Andes. There is a beautiful hotel on the property, and we now realize why. After all those bumps and jumps you totally want to take a nice long siesta. But our trip was just 3 hours, so we about-faced and took the road more traveled with no snafus. Muchas gracias to Peter for getting us there and back, no worse for the wear!

Jugo de Torrontes

2010-02-06T15:40:00.004-08:00

In Chilecito, after that goat dinner and a recoop in the Automobile Club de Argentina (a hotel that I am convinced used to be either a school or a hospital), we visited the Riojana wine cooperative in town. During our tour we witnessed the massive dumping of Merlot grapes directly from a large truck into a large de-stemmer, as 2 guys stood in the truck with the grapes, pushing them into the machine with large pitchforks. It was quite a sight, and it may make you think twice about buying wine that comes in a jug or box...

There we tasted some interesting bubbly made from Torrontes - one dry, simple style and one more sweet one that better expressed the grape. But what we enjoyed most was a fresh, pure juice made from the Torrontes grape. Like peaches and honey with a flowery aroma, it tasted just like some Torrontes grapes we had sampled at a vineyard in Mendoza. Peter got 3 cartons of the juice and bought me this hat, which came in handy during the roadtrips that followed in the blazing sun of 40+ degree-celsius temperatures (that's over 100 degrees fahrenheit, every day!).

Goats do roam

2010-02-05T08:27:00.002-08:00

Peter and I arrived in Chilecito last night, a city in the La Rioja region of Argentina, north of Mendoza and south of Salta. We got in just in time for dinner, and goats were on the menu. A specialty in this country, I had gotten my first taste in La Consulta and liked it. So we ordered a bottle of Torrontes and goat prepared 2 ways - 1 grilled and 1 stewed in Torrontes.

First - the wine: this Santa Florentina Torrontes from La Rioja was a tough one. Different from the ones we've had so far, it changed every time we tried it and had marked acidity. At first we likened it to a Pinot Grigio, but then those orangey notes started showing up in the form of a creamsicle. The acidity was more pronounced than in the other Torrontes we've had so far, but it seemed out of balance and/or artificial. Very interesting.

Now for the goats: the grilled goat was goatier than we would have liked. Peter suspects it was an older goat. The goat stewed in Torrontes was more tasty and delicious. However, the actual Torrontes couldn't hold up to its goaty cooked self. After a bit of stew the wine tasted like orange juice... from concentrate. Not good. It was more enjoyable before we started eating. Oh well - the whole thing was an experience I'm still laughing about.

Los Vencejos Aleteo 2006 World Premiere

2010-02-04T10:30:00.006-08:00

Introducing Los Vencejos Aleteo 2006: you saw it here first! This wine will be released for sale in the U.S. in the spring (for $22.50 a bottle at http://www.losvencejos.com/) after 2 years in French oak and 2 years in bottle. It is 100% Tempranillo, and Aleteo means 'wingbeat.' Luscious and juicy, full of ripe cherry on the nose, the palate gives way to a complex melange of chocolate, cherry and clove spice. The finish: lingering and long, it begs for another sip. I love this wine.

A day after opening, the Aleteo had an intoxicating aroma of fresh cinnamon buns with chocolate raspberry on the palate. Full and balanced, this wine could be held another several years thanks to the lively fruit and smooth tannin.

Well done, Peter!

Another ridiculously good looking lunch

2010-02-02T06:06:00.002-08:00

The Park Hyatt Mendoza looks like it should be a fancy government building, and it has a great terrace overlooking the main town square. Peter and I had lunch there when we got back from BA and it was another ridiculously good looking lunch. We got the 12-sampler tasting menu with a glass of wine each; Peter got the Alta Vista Torrontes 2009 and I got the Melipal Malbec Rose 2009.

The Torrontes was classic with musk and orange blossom. The producer has property right behind Peter in La Consulta, but the Torrontes comes from Salta. We've been trying to figure out why Torrontes isn't more popular and I thought maybe it is difficult to match with food. But it went well with many of the dishes we had, including sweetbreads, blue cheese w. honey, parmesan w. paprika, and fried calamari.

The Malbec rose had a smoky nose of cured meat and red berry. It was more fuller bodied and deeper in color than most roses I've had. It had good acidity and went with a lot of the dishes, most notably the grilled shrimp, salmon carpaccio and beef carpaccio.

Another day in Mendoza, another slothful lunch... or so I don't feel so guilty about it... another exercise in wine and food pairing.

Gewurz in a tree on Los Vencejos

2010-02-01T18:04:00.002-08:00

I brought a bottle of Hermann J. Wiemer Gewurztraminer 2006 to Argentina to drink with Peter. This wine is beautiful - very delicate with honeysuckle on the nose and soft fruit on the palate - pineapple, apricot, and a little bitter orange or citrus zest on the finish.

Peter has this great tree in front of his house that I was just dying to climb. So after half a glass of wine I climbed it and then finished the glass in the tree while watching the sunset.

Wine in BsAs

2010-02-01T06:43:00.006-08:00

We drank some great wine in Buenos Aires last week. Most notable was the 1998 Montchenot from Bodegas Lopez in Mendoza. It was a blend of Cab Sauv, Merlot and Malbec. The alcohol was only 12.5%, which is low for this area (and nice to see). This wine was beautiful and elegant. Because of the age it was well-developed and super smooth, with a pretty strawberry pie character. Peter knows this wine and he said it spends a long time in big vats and is not released for several years; it's a traditional Argentine, slightly oxidized style.

Another interesting wine was a Cab Franc from Angelica Zapata (a line from Bodega Catena Zapata). It was fresh and smooth with typical character - green pepper, red fruit - but we realized an even more perfect descriptor as we drank it: beets! As soon as I said it we knew it worked. I'm looking forward to finding this characteristic in future Cab Francs.

Finally we had the 2009 Miraflor Torrontes by Michel Rolland from the Salta region, where we will soon be going. We found it to be very elegant and showing good typicity of the grape. It was very fragrant with pronounced orange blossom. We loved it, and it made us look forward to our pending trip up there!

HJW in Argentina

2010-01-28T13:03:00.004-08:00

After a long journey from the Finger Lakes to Long Island to Argentina, it was about time for Peter and me to drink the wine we made during the 2009 harvest at Hermann J. Wiemer. In October we had harvested Gewurztraminer from the HJW vineyard at Wiemer, the original and oldest planting on the property. We had separated out the botrytis-affected bunches and used only the shriveliest bunches for our wine, fermenting it and yielding just one 375mL bottle. It was ready by the end of October, so it´s been aging (and traveling) for about 3 months.

When we took it out of the fridge today we noticed the sediment in the bottle right away. When we first poured it there were some bubbles, so we worried that it had started to re-ferment. But the nose was developed and very pretty, with white flower, orange, grapefruit, and a touch of botrytis spice and minerality. On the palate it had a luscious mouthfeel, complexity, and a really good integration of sweetness, acidity, body, and alcohol. The flavor reminded me of honeyed grapefruit and the finish was crisp. It tasted very different from when we first tried it in early November; the 3 months of bottle aging definitely served it well. We were so excited by the result! We are so proud that we made a good wine. If only we had been able to make some more. Maybe next harvest...

Green harvest

2010-01-27T12:40:00.004-08:00

At Peter's vineyard we did a little green harvesting, or fruit thinning, of the Tempranillo. We eliminated bunches so that a smaller amount of fruit could develop more fully. It was kind of sad to drop so many beautiful bunches, but I know it'll be good for the wine in the end - having fewer bunches means the remaining grapes will have more intense flavors. We fed some of the fallen bunches to the sheep, so that was good too.

I found the most beautiful bird´s nest in one of the plants I was working on. It had 4 small turquoise speckled eggs in it. We went back later to get a photo and the mother bird, which is a Chingolo, was there and flew off when she saw us, so we snapped a quick one and left so she could return.

We worked for a few hours in the morning and then took a break for lunch and a siesta. I now understand and appreciate the whole siesta thing. It is too hot in the afternoon to work outside, so everyone rests and then goes back to work around 5pm til about 8pm, when it's cooler. The sun doesn't go down until around 10pm, so everyone works late and eats late.

It seems like people here should be heavier since they are always eating and then sleeping, but they're not - must be all that farmwork.

Barrel Sampling at Los Vencejos

2010-01-26T14:23:00.004-08:00

Peter and I went to check on his wine, which is vinified and aged at Finca La Luz in the Uco Valley, south of the city of Mendoza (but still part of the Mendoza wine region). We barrel-sampled his Malbec and Tempranillo, contrasting oak types and ages and getting a sense for how the flavors are developing.

*Malbec 2009 in French first-use oak: black pepper and dark fruit; layers of complexity forming.
*Malbec 2009 in French second-use oak: more pronounced fruit with more elegant body.
*Tempranillo 2009 in American first-use oak: cherry cola and smooth tannin.
*Tempranillo 2009 in French first-use oak: a hint of clove with red cherry.
*Tempranillo 2008 in Hybrid (French and American) first-use oak: clove and baking spices, like mulled cider; evolved into eucalyptus and blackberry jam; very complex and exciting.

All the wines were very tasty and interesting. We were pretty jazzed about the Tempranillo in general because it is very unique (it's a mainstay grape in Spain but here in Argentina it's Malbec most of the time). In a few days we'll be bottling the Tempranillo 2008 and then it will age in bottle for another 2 years.

The 2009s will stay in barrel for at least another year before bottling. If you can't wait that long, Los Vencejos Tempranillo 2007 and Malbec 2007 are available at www.losvencejos.com.

Meat me in Mendoza (Part 2)

2010-01-25T19:16:00.002-08:00

After the visit to Achaval Ferrer we had lunch at Norton - but not just any lunch - a 7-course lunch with 7 wines: 3 appetizers, 2 mains, and 2 desserts. It was so ridiculous because we didn't realize it was happening until they brought out the second main and then we figured out that we weren't splitting the tasting menu, we were basically getting all of it. The food was delicious. Fresh salmon ravioli, empanadas, lamb, etc. For the wine pairings they sometimes contrasted regular wines with reserve wines - Chardonnay, Malbec - and interestingly we preferred the regular wines in these cases because they were more fruity and less oaky.

After that we didn't think dinner would be necessary, but we ended up at a wine bar later that night and did a delicious wine and cheese pairing. My favorite pair was the Urraca Familia Langley Blend 2005 - Malbec, Merlot, Cab Sauv - with Sainte-Maure goat cheese, followed by the Enamore Blend 2007 - Malbec, Syrah, Bonarda, Cab Sauv, Cab Franc - with blue cheese sprinkled with black pepper.

Meat me in Mendoza (Part 1)

2010-01-25T19:14:00.004-08:00

After a thrilling all-day busride over the Andes, Peter and I reunited and spent the weekend in Mendoza, Argentina, enjoying the meat and Malbec. First up was a really elegant Angelica Zapata 2004 Malbec, a product of the successful Bodega Catena Zapata. Bright fruit with balanced alcohol and acidity made this a treat both with and without the meat.

At a visit to Achaval Ferrer, one of the top Malbec producers, I learned about their very interesting way of de-alcoholizing their wine. They said because of the heat their Malbec gets super ripe and can get up to 17-18% alcohol, which is too high, so to bring it down to a more reasonable 13-14% they have fans blowing over the juice as it is fermenting, helping to evaporate the alcohol. This is fascinating to me. Their yields are very low to concentrate the flavors in the grapes, which explains why the vines looked so sparse as we were driving in - only a few bunches per plant. We also learned that you should age your wine without the foil capsule on it so you can see how the cork is holding up. If you see that you have a leaky cork, better drink the wine!

We tasted one of Achaval Ferrer's single vineyard Malbecs, Finca Bella Vista, from 2007. This wine goes for over $100 a bottle in the US. It was super concentrated with flavors of blackberry and licorice. They also had a nice blend called Quimera (also 2007) that was Malbec, Merlot, Cab Sauv and Cab Franc. It had a lot of bright red fruit and good structure.

The Maule Moment

2010-01-22T09:00:00.004-08:00

It just so happened that I saved my best winery experience in Chile for last. I made an excursion to the J. Bouchon Winery and Mingre Lodge this week in the Maule Valley, 3 hours south of Santiago. Hosted by Julio Bouchon, I learned about the history of the family, the wine, and the land. Maule Valley is the largest wine-producing region geographically, but it is only just beginning to receive recognition for the terroir and the quality wines that result - hence, the Maule moment. In terms of hectares, Bouchon is medium-sized for Chile with 370 hectares planted and 1.8 million liters of wine produced annually. All the grapes from their 3 vineyard sites are hand-picked and sorted at the winery.

In between mountain biking and horseback riding I tasted the complete lineup of wines - 3 whites, 1 rose, and 8 reds. In general the wines are fresh and fruity, with the reds showing a balanced use of French oak, sometimes new and sometimes old. Since I liked them all I have to mention them each briefly:

* Sauvignon Blanc 2009: easy-going, floral, citrusy, light.
* Chardonnay 2009: unoaked so crisp and fruity.
* Las Mercedes Sauvignon Blanc 2007: complex, oaked SB that maintains tropical fruit and acidity.
* Cabernet Sauvignon Rose 2009: strawberry, cherry, light and dry.
* Merlot Reserva 2008: strawberry with a black tea finish.
* Carmenere-Syrah Reserva 2008: interesting and unique blend with green pepper, black fruit, some chocolate.
* Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva 2008: red and black fruits, very juicy with smooth tannins.

The Reserva Especial line is made from the oldest vines - some as old as 80 years!
* Malbec Reserva Especial 2007: strawberry and vanilla with firm tannin.
* Carmenere Reserva Especial 2007: fresh bell pepper nose and red fruit with some spice.
* Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva Especial 2007: black fruit, cassis, eucalyptus; very juicy and approachable.

The Blends
* Las Mercedes Ensamblaje 2006: 45%Cab Sauv, 40%Syrah, 15%Malbec. Complex with black fruits, cassis, mint, eucalyptus, raspberry.
* Mingre 2006: 45%Cab Sauv; 15% each Carmenere, Malbec, Syrah; 10%Merlot. Similar to Las Mercedes but with brighter red fruit.

I talked a lot about the Carmenere in Chile, but I should mention that Cabernet Sauvignon is really the main grape and wine in Chile, making up 50% of wine production in Chile. Cab Sauv is not one of my favorite varieties (it is often too heavy and tannic for me) so I don't often focus on it. But, the Cab Sauvs at J. Bouchon were the best I had in Chile and some of the most enjoyable I've had to date.

Beautiful scenery, outdoor activities, and great wine - a fantastic way to end my stay in Chile.

Skip to Marilu

2010-01-21T20:36:00.003-08:00

I had a fantastic experience at Casa Marin in the San Antonio Valley, west of the coastal ranges just 20 km from the ocean. I tasted the best lineup of winemaker Maria Luz Marin's wines and toured the facility with her. Marilu, as she is called, was a pioneer in planting vines on the slopes of the mountains 10 years ago. Like all pioneers, she was viewed as loco (crazy). And like all pioneers, her results proved otherwise. The vineyards on top of the hills experience a different mesoclimate (cooler, more breezy) than those at the bottom (warmer), and the taste differences are apparent in the wines, particularly the Sauvignon Blanc. In general, the area benefits from constant coastal breezes that moderate the temperature and cool things down at night.

In terms of varietals, Marilu produces all my faves: Sauvignon Blanc, Gewurztraminer, Riesling, Pinot Noir, Syrah. The Sauv Blanc and Pinot Noir are fermented naturally, while the rest are usually innoculated with yeast (with the exception of the 2009 Riesling).

The tasting:
* Riesling Miramar Vineyard 2008: set on the higher part of the hills, Miramar vineyard enjoys a cooler climate with the ocean wind naturally keeping yields lower. The nose is like a classic German Riesling - petrol, mineral, citrus. It is dry, crisp, and fresh with high acidity.
* Sauvignon Blanc Laurel Vineyard 2009: Laurel is a lower vineyard with calcereous soil and warmer temperatures that result in a higher yield. The nose was unlike anything I've ever smelled on a Sauv Blanc - cantaloupe, yellow peaches, apricot. The zesty palate has tropical and similar stone fruit flavors with a long finish.
* Sauvignon Blanc Cipresses Vineyard 2009: Cipresses is higher on the hills with a cooler climate and lower yield. This is a more typical style Sauv Blanc with pronounced gooseberry, herb, lime zest, and a tiny bit of ash on the finish.
* Sauvignon Gris 2009: 60% fermented in new French oak and the rest in stainless steel for 6-7 months. The nose had a unique fresh corn character and was smooth and tropical on the palate with some melon notes as well. This grape is a mutation/cousin of Sauv Blanc and I'd never had it before - very interesting.
* Gewurztraminer 2009: beautiful perfume aroma that at first reminded me of the Tocca Brigitte perfume I sometimes wear and then evolved into lychee and white peach followed by the softest baby powder. On the palate it was dry with pretty flowers and tropical fruit. A really beautiful wine, reminding me how much I love Gewurz.
* Pinot Noir Lo Abarca Vineyard 2006: 12 months in oak, 60% new. Served chilled to lesson the impact of the 15% alcohol (which worked since I never would have guessed it was that high). Classic PN aromas and flavors of red fruit and smoky bacon - delicious! My first Pinot in Chile and it definitely delivered.
* Cartagena Pinot Noir 2009: an experimental label launched in Nov '09, it is completely vinified in stainless steel and meant to be drunk now, cold. The nose is smoky with eucalyptus, then red fruit and meat come through on the palate. It tastes light and almost fizzy. 14% alcohol. Very interesting and pleasant.

After this fantastic lineup I did some barrel sampling with Marilu and her son Phillipe. We tried the '09 Syrah, comparing a French oak sample with an American oak sample. The French barrel was soft and fruity with very subtle spiciness. The American barrel was pure black pepper on the nose and blackberry on the palate. Both are currently going through malolactic fermentation so they will soften after this completes. They've been in barrels for 9 months so far and will remain there for at least another 6 mths. Marilu said they don't always do a Syrah - it depends on the vintage.

I had been most looking forward to this winery visit in Chile, expecting great things from Casa Marin's whites and Pinot Noir, and it was everything I had hoped for. Thanks to Marilu, Phillipe, and Jamie for hosting me and to Karen for setting it up and sharing the experience with me!

Alpacas and grapes

2010-01-21T19:44:00.002-08:00

On Tuesday the workers at Viña Matetic on the border of the San Antonio and Casablanca Valleys caught their alpacas eating the Chardonnay grapes. I guess this is one of the cons of having an organic winery. Of course one of the pros is that the alpacas, and the sheep and other animals that share the land with the grapes, contribute naturally to the cycle of life in this environment (mostly because their waste is used as fertilizer). Matetic has been certified organic for 4 years and has been working to become biodynamic since 2002. Biodynamic practices are complicated and include 'rituals' like spreading carefully prepared mixtures of manure at certain times throughout the vineyard. Isn't winemaking so romantic?

The Matetic winemaking facility is built into the hills with a lot of large rocks and smooth wood flanking the interior. It is gravity-driven so they don't need to pump the wine from one place to the other. The family Matetic was the first to plant Syrah in the area, in 1999. The Coralillo Syrah 2008 was a gorgeous fuschia color with blackberry, smoke, and roses. The tannins were firm and it could probably use more time in the bottle. Failing that option it may also be great with a steak. The Winemaker's Blend 2007 is 44% Cab Franc, 30% Merlot, and 26% Malbec. It had a spicy cinnamon nose with flavors or black fruit, rose, and caramel. It too would probably benefit from some meat and/or more bottle time.

I think I was most excited about seeing the alpacas :) Although it would've been even better to eat some grapes with them.

Chilean Riesling

2010-01-18T15:23:00.001-08:00

With 2 days off from wine touring (yesterday was Election Day in Chile so wineries were closed and today I had a shopping day), I was going through a bit of withdrawal so I decided to pick up a half-bottle of wine from the supermarket (for less than US$4). It's from Underraga, who I visited last week, and it's a Sauvignon Blanc-Riesling blend from 2008. I don't think I have ever seen these 2 grapes together before so I was intrigued. Plus the bottle is a bizarre shape - reminds me of an old-school Chianti bottle or a liquor bottle. On the nose the wine has classic Sauv Blanc herbaceousness mixed with Riesling minerality and a bit of petrol. On the palate it is light and citrusy with great acidity and zest. Quite enjoyable for this sunny afternoon in Santiago. I hope there will be more Riesling in my semi-immediate future during these last few days in Chile.

Cruzing

2010-01-16T17:10:00.004-08:00

Colchagua Valley, Chile - home to the little town of Santa Cruz and the picturesque wineries MontGras and Bisquertt.

MontGras was just beautiful, with purple flower gardens accenting the vineyards. At this point in the lifecycle of the vine (summertime) the grapes are developing and for the most part have not yet gone through veraison, or color development. So all the grapes I've seen so far down here have been an unripe green, until today at MontGras, where I witnessed their Pinot Noir beginning to turn purple. At MontGras I actually had my favorite Chardonnay of the trip yet. It was 60% aged in French oak and the rest stainless steel, and it went through partial malolactic fermentation. The result was a smooth wine with tropical fruit flavors.

At Bisquertt, I saw huge Chilean oak barrels that are no longer used for fermenting wine but are now made into regal chairs. Sitting in one of these chairs fit for a queen I had my first Chilean Gewurztraminer, which was delicious. Not many wineries in Chile have this variety so I was so happy to try it. It was flowery on the nose and tropical/citrusy on the palate, just like it should be.

Colchagua Valley is the first area in Chile that slightly resembles other wine areas that I've been to the before. Maybe it's the Andes, but before today every where I'd been seemed so unique. In Colchagua there actually seems to be a wine trail, a main road where you pass multiple wineries along the way. There is even a Wine Train that leaves from Santa Cruz and takes people along the route. You drink wine on the train, learn about the industry and visit 2 vineyards. Tren del Vino! Maybe next time.

Por que Santa Rita?

2010-01-15T16:55:00.004-08:00

I am a failure because I visited Santa Rita today and I still don't know why it is called as such. Often the winery is named for a person, but nowhere in the history lessons I received did I hear the name Rita, so I am super confused about its origins. And I did the thing where I wondered it in my head several times throughout the day but never actually asked the question. I had some trouble finding my voice today - sensory overload maybe.

Anyway, Santa Rita is another classic establishment in Chile, one of the oldest wineries. It is huge and commercial but has a beautiful old cellar and a cool museum filled with South American artifacts like pottery, textiles, gold, silver, copper, and stone that were made by native people like the Incas and Mapuches.

I tried the 2 wines pictured and liked them both. The Sauv Blanc, made from their fruit grown in the Casablanca valley near the Pacific ocean (better valley for whites than Maipo) had a really luscious pineapple character and a fresh acidity. The Cab Sauv was like liquid toffee, with firm tannins. It aged for 10 months in American oak, which clearly contributed the rich toffee/butterscotch/chocolate thing going on. I could've drank this wine for dessert.

An interesting thing I learned was that they have different wines for Chilean consumption versus for export. The exported SB uses fruit from a different vineyard; the exported CS was aged in French oak for 14 months. I tried to get the reasoning behind this but I think it may have been lost in translation. In the past, higher quality wine was exported because other markets had more sophisticated palates than Chile. But now that Chile has established itself in the wine industry, the quality levels are intended to be the same, and I think the differences must be due to stylistic preferences. The exact answer remains a mystery like the origins of the name Santa Rita. Marcelo, if you are reading this, help a sister out?

The devil's cellar

2010-01-15T11:24:00.003-08:00

Today I'm back in the Maipo Valley to visit the classic Concha y Toro, one of the oldest wineries in Chile. They are most known in the US for value wines. It was great to see the expansive property and cellars. Their production is over 15 million liters of wine per year. They own several labels around Chile. One of them, Cono Sur, located in the south, won a couple of the Wines of Chile awards last night. They also have a premium wine that they don't export, which is a collaboration with Baron Phillipe de Rothschild in France.

Security is tight at Concha y Toro. In the olden days they had a problem with theft in the original cellar that held the family's wines, so they started a rumor that the cellar was guarded by the devil. After that they didn't notice any more missing bottles - people were very superstitious then. Now they commemorate that story with a line of value wines called Casillero del Diablo, the devil's cellar.

I had a classic empanada for lunch after my tour with a glass of their Terrunyo Carmenere 2006, which was a good complement to this meat pastry. To be frank, I didn't make this visit for the wine but for the history.

Next up - another classic, Santa Rita!